Ptah by Ciro c1923

Launched in 1923, Ptah by Ciro arrived at the height of Egyptomania, a cultural phenomenon ignited by the discovery of King Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922 by British archaeologist Howard Carter. The name Ptah (pronounced "Puh-tah") was a deliberate nod to ancient Egyptian mystique and power, chosen to align with the era’s fascination with the grandeur of the past. In Egyptian mythology, Ptah was one of the most important gods, a creator deity associated with art, craftsmanship, and rebirth. Often depicted as a mummified figure wearing a skullcap, holding a scepter, Ptah was revered as the divine architect of the universe, a god of creation and transformation. The subtitle "King of Them All" further emphasized its majesty, suggesting that Ptah was not merely another fragrance but a ruler among perfumes, a scent of unparalleled distinction.

The 1920s were defined by a relentless pursuit of modernity, but alongside the rush toward the future, there was an insatiable curiosity for the past—particularly the exotic and mysterious world of ancient Egypt. The discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb sent shockwaves through popular culture, influencing fashion, jewelry, architecture, and, of course, perfumery. Egyptian motifs—lotuses, scarabs, sphinxes, hieroglyphics, and gold accents—appeared on everything from evening gowns to Art Deco perfume bottles. The era’s most stylish women, including socialites and Hollywood actresses, embraced Egyptian-inspired beauty, drawing kohl-rimmed eyes in the likeness of Cleopatra and adorning themselves with beaded headdresses and exotic jewelry.

Fragrance was an essential part of this aesthetic, and Ptah was perfectly positioned to embody this mystical, regal allure. The very name evoked images of an ancient world steeped in ceremony and splendor—the burning of resins in gilded temples, floral offerings laid at the feet of gods, the scent of rare oils perfuming the air of royal chambers. It was a fragrance that whispered of power, mystery, and eternal beauty, capturing the fantasy of a civilization both long-lost and yet newly rediscovered.

The early 1920s were a time of radical change, particularly for women. The rigid social structures of the Victorian and Edwardian eras had been shattered in the aftermath of World War I, and a new, liberated woman emerged—one who embraced freedom, independence, and bold self-expression. The flapper was the ultimate symbol of the age: she cut her hair into a sleek bob, wore daringly short dresses, danced to jazz, and reveled in the thrill of modernity.

Fashion had moved away from the heavy, restrictive silhouettes of the past and toward streamlined, geometric elegance. The Art Deco movement, with its love of sharp angles, symmetry, and luxurious materials, dominated design. Perfumes of the decade followed suit, embracing bold, sophisticated compositions that reflected this newfound daring femininity.

Described as a floral chypre, Ptah was a powerful and refined fragrance, perfectly in step with the trends of the time. The chypre family, defined by its contrast between fresh citrus, floral heart notes, and a mossy, resinous base, was gaining popularity in the 1920s, offering elegant yet provocative scents that lingered with a mysterious depth.

If Ptah were to be interpreted as a scent of ancient Egypt, it would likely open with bright, sunlit notes, evoking the golden glow of the Nile at dawn. The heart of the fragrance, with its opulent florals, would be reminiscent of lotus blossoms floating on temple pools, garlands of jasmine and roses woven into the hair of a queen. The base—rich, earthy, and animalic—would conjure the scent of sacred resins burned in honor of the gods, the warmth of sunbaked stone, and the lingering presence of something eternal.

Interestingly, Ptah was recommended specifically for brunettes—a marketing strategy that played into the era’s fascination with personalized beauty recommendations. At the time, perfumes were often suggested based on hair color or personality, with darker, richer scents thought to suit brunettes, while lighter, fresher compositions were associated with blondes. The association with dark-haired beauty further tied Ptah to an image of exotic, seductive mystery, reinforcing the idea of a queenly, untouchable woman with an air of ancient wisdom and allure.

In the context of 1920s perfumery, Ptah was both timely and distinctive. The decade had already seen the rise of bold aldehydic florals (such as Chanel No. 5, launched in 1921) and rich, sultry chypres (like Coty’s Chypre, 1917). Ptah aligned with these trends while offering a unique Egyptian-inspired fantasy, setting it apart from the predominantly French and oriental-themed fragrances of the time.

Henriette Gabilla, who created Ptah, was already well-established in the world of perfumery, known for crafting elegant, meticulously balanced compositions. Her work for Ciro, which included Ptah, showcased her ability to blend historical inspiration with contemporary sophistication, creating fragrances that were as wearable as they were evocative.

Ptah by Ciro was more than just a perfume—it was an invitation to step into the past, to embody the regality of ancient queens and the mystery of lost civilizations. At a time when women were redefining their identities, Ptah offered a fragrance that was bold, commanding, and deeply sensual, a scent that whispered of hidden knowledge, eternal beauty, and the power to create and transform.

In 1923, when a woman reached for Ptah, she wasn’t simply applying a fragrance—she was adorning herself with an invisible crown, surrendering to the magic of scent while embracing her own strength, allure, and timeless mystery.

Henriette Gabilla of Les Parfums de Gabilla, created perfumes and presentations for other companies such as Ciro. Gabilla created the first perfume presentations for Ciro and in 1923, Gabilla trademarked the names Bouquet Antique, Le Chevalier de la Nuit, Ptah and Les Parfums de Ciro. Bouquet Antique, Ptah and Le Chevalier de la Nuit were names of  Ciro's perfumes.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Ptah by Ciro is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, Provencal lavender, Dutch lilac, Dutch narcissus, Turkish mignonette
• Middle notes: Egyptian lotus, Tuscan violet, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Egyptian jasmine, Alpine lily of the valley, Grasse rose, Chinese gardenia and forget me not
• Base notes: Venezuelan tonka bean, Madagascan vanilla, Haitian vetiver, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, Tyrolean oakmoss, Cyprus labdanum, coumarin, Seychelles patchouli, vanillin

 

Scent Profile:

The first breath of Ptah is a sunlit burst, radiant with the citrus brilliance of Calabrian bergamot and Sicilian lemon. These two ingredients, both native to the sun-drenched Mediterranean, bring a contrast of light and depth. The bergamot, plucked from orchards in Calabria, Italy, carries a uniquely floral-citrus sharpness, less biting than orange but more refined than a simple lemon. Its counterpart, Sicilian lemon, is sharper, more direct—a golden zap of freshness extracted from fruit kissed by the volcanic soil of Mount Etna. These bright notes shimmer over a calming foundation of Provencal lavender, an ingredient cultivated in the rolling purple fields of southern France, where altitude and dry air intensify its herbal sweetness, creating a clean yet slightly camphoraceous scent that tempers the citrus sharpness.

As the lavender settles, a floral-green tapestry unfolds, rich with Dutch lilac and narcissus. These blooms, grown in the cool, controlled climates of the Netherlands, exude an almost dewy, pastoral purity—the lilac, airy and powdery, like a breeze passing through a garden at dawn, while the narcissus is richer, headier, carrying a waxy, almost animalic depth. Turkish mignonette, an unusual inclusion, adds a subtle spiced sweetness, reminiscent of honey warmed by the sun, its aroma drifting through the opening like a fleeting whisper.

Then comes the heart, a floral symphony that pulses with depth, sensuality, and ancient mystery. Egyptian lotus, sacred and serene, unfolds like an offering on temple waters. Its scent is ethereal—aquatic, airy, with an almost buttery softness, a fragrance once reserved for pharaohs and priests. Tuscan violet, grown in the fertile valleys of Italy, emerges with its trademark powdery, green softness, adding a velvety touch that feels both nostalgic and regal.

As the composition deepens, Nossi-Be ylang-ylang, sourced from the remote island off Madagascar’s coast, infuses a golden, tropical richness, its aroma oscillating between banana-like creaminess and sultry jasmine-like spice. This sensuality is heightened by Egyptian jasmine, a bloom of exquisite intensity, with an almost narcotic depth, its honeyed sweetness tinged with indolic allure. Alpine lily of the valley, cultivated in the crisp mountain air, introduces a delicate bell-like freshness, its green transparency balancing the heavier florals. The romance of the Grasse rose, a rare variety hand-harvested in the perfume capital of France, bathes the composition in petal-soft warmth, a bloom that feels like silk against the skin. Chinese gardenia and forget-me-not round out the bouquet—gardenia adding a creamy, almost waxen floral richness, while forget-me-not lends a gentle, almost violet-like wistfulness.

As the floral opulence recedes, the base notes anchor the composition in a velvety, smoldering embrace. Venezuelan tonka bean, with its characteristic almond-like sweetness and hay-like depth, intertwines with Madagascan vanilla, which brings a spicy, bourbon-inflected warmth, rich and slightly smoky, unlike the pale vanillas from elsewhere. Haitian vetiver, with its characteristic earthy, root-like smokiness, adds a whisper of damp earth, grounding the floral exuberance.

Perhaps the most regal note is Mysore sandalwood, once the most coveted in the world, known for its creamy, sacred warmth, a scent that lingers like the echo of a prayer. This is deepened by ambergris, that salty-sweet, sun-warmed whisper of the ocean, lending an almost animalic sensuality to the dry down. Tyrolean oakmoss, harvested from the alpine forests of Austria, brings the shadowy dampness of an ancient woodland, its green, mossy richness softened by Cyprus labdanum, a leathery, resinous warmth that feels almost sun-baked.

The final impression is both soft and smoldering, with the honeyed almond of coumarin, the damp, musky sweetness of Seychelles patchouli, and the gourmand whisper of vanillin, leaving behind a trail that is at once mystical, regal, and hauntingly beautiful—a scent worthy of the gods.

Bottle:

The presentation of Ptah by Ciro in a Baccarat crystal flacon was a masterful blend of luxury, historical reverence, and the Egyptomania that swept the world in the early 1920s. The bottle, shaped like an ancient Egyptian Canopic jar, was not merely an artistic choice but a deliberate nod to the mystique and grandeur of Egypt’s ancient burial customs. The domed stopper, resembling an upside-down Egyptian lotus blossom, further deepened this connection, as the lotus was a sacred symbol of rebirth and divine beauty in Egyptian mythology.

In ancient Egypt, Canopic jars were used to store and preserve the organs of the deceased during the mummification process. Each jar was dedicated to one of the four sons of Horus, who protected the liver, stomach, intestines, and lungs. These jars were essential to ensuring safe passage to the afterlife, making them powerful symbols of preservation, transformation, and eternity. Using such a shape for Ptah’s bottle subtly suggested that the perfume held within was something precious, sacred, and enduring—an essence worthy of preservation, much like the elixirs and ointments entombed with the pharaohs.

Adding to the authenticity, the elongated paper label on the front of the bottle was reminiscent of a cartouche, the oval frame used in Egyptian hieroglyphs to enclose the names of royalty. In ancient times, a cartouche was more than just a nameplate; it was a powerful symbol of protection and divine legitimacy. By incorporating this design, Ciro aligned Ptah with regal status, mysticism, and a sense of timeless identity.

The neck of the bottle was adorned with silken cords, terminating in double tassels, further enhancing the feeling of ritual and opulence. Tassels have long been associated with luxury and refinement, while the cords evoke the wrappings of sacred scrolls or relics, reinforcing the idea that this fragrance was more than just a scent—it was an experience, a talisman of beauty and power. The bottle was housed in a presentation case covered with red satin.

Standing 4 ¼ inches tall, 2 inches wide, and 1 ½ inches deep, this crystal vessel was a true work of art, embodying both the lavish aesthetics of Art Deco design and the profound cultural fascination with Egypt. Much like the treasures discovered in King Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, the flacon of Ptah was a relic of both past and present, evoking the mysteries of ancient civilization while capturing the modern spirit of luxury and adventure.

The bottle was designed by Guy T. Gibson and patented on Jan. 26, 1926.

In 1926, Ptah by Ciro was a true luxury fragrance, reflecting its opulent presentation and high-quality ingredients. The parfum retailed for $17.50, while the toilet water was priced at $8.50—figures that, when adjusted for inflation, equate to approximately $308.55 and $149.87 in 2024’s currency. These prices positioned Ptah firmly within the realm of prestige perfumery, accessible only to those who could afford such indulgence. At a time when the average American earned about $2,000 per year, purchasing Ptah was not a casual decision but a deliberate act of self-expression and sophistication.

The cost was justified by the sumptuous Baccarat crystal flacon, the rare and exotic raw materials, and the exclusivity of the brand. Perfume was not merely a personal accessory but a statement of status, refinement, and modern femininity. The high price tag underscored Ptah’s allure—owning it meant embracing the glamour of the Art Deco age, the mystique of Egyptomania, and the elegance of haute parfumerie.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1923, Ptah by Ciro enjoyed a long presence in the luxury perfume market, though the exact date of its discontinuation remains unknown. Advertisements confirm that it was still being sold as late as 1937, indicating its enduring appeal well into the Art Deco era. Despite the shifting trends in perfumery during the 1920s and 1930s—where aldehydic florals and more modern compositions gained popularity—Ptah retained its prestige, likely due to its evocative Egyptian inspiration, luxurious Baccarat flacon, and opulent floral chypre composition. The fragrance was part of the Egyptomania movement sparked by the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, captivating those drawn to the mystique of ancient civilizations. Though eventually discontinued, Ptah remains a sought-after relic of early 20th-century perfumery, reflecting an era of exoticism, grandeur, and olfactory artistry.

2018 Reformulation & Relaunch:

In 2018, Parfums Ciro was revived, bringing back some of its most iconic creations with modern reinterpretations. Among them was Ptah, reimagined by perfumer Alexandra Carlin. While honoring the historical roots of the original 1923 floral chypre, this new Ptah embodies a more contemporary expression of elegance, blending the mystical legacy of ancient Egypt with a refined, modern olfactory experience.

The fragrance concept is deeply intertwined with the power of language and creation, drawing inspiration from Ptah, the ancient Egyptian god credited with bringing the universe into existence through the spoken word. This theme of imagination, transformation, and intellect is reflected in the perfume’s composition, which weaves a tapestry of contrasting textures and moods.

The opening is a luminous, citrus-infused breeze, where the sparkling freshness of bergamot is paired with the woody-spicy brightness of ginger. A touch of sage adds an herbaceous sharpness, evoking a sense of clarity and ancient wisdom. As the fragrance unfolds, it reveals a smoky-powdery heart, where iris and incense intertwine—cool, ethereal, and almost otherworldly. The deep green tones of geranium introduce a subtle floral crispness, while rose lingers in the background, a whispered echo of past grandeur.

The base offers a compelling duality: the smooth warmth of vanilla heightened by the almond-like richness of tonka bean, contrasted with a raw, almost untamed sensuality. Masculine leather notes bring depth and intrigue, amplified by the earthy, salty smokiness of vetiver, which lends a final, enigmatic touch—an echo of Egypt’s vast, golden deserts and the ancient temples of Ptah.

This modern Ptah remains a tribute to the past, yet reinterpreted for those who appreciate intellectual depth, independent thought, and refined sensuality. It is a fragrance that speaks of power—not through force, but through mystery, sophistication, and the art of creation itself.

From the website:

"Language creates worlds. She moves, touches, changes, takes away stories and history. Their god is Ptah, the ancient Egyptian god, the father of the gods from whom all life proceeds. Like the spiritual creation of a novel that takes us into strange spheres, the power of words has remained. And our language to this day is the beginning of all becoming, of all being. 

PTAH pays homage to the imagination that breaks down in the power of the word orbit - and is dedicated to those subtle esthete who passionately indulge in the temptations of independent thought. 

The citrusy freshness of bergamot in a duet cools the lively spirit with the herb-woody fruitiness of the ginger, which, accompanied by herbaceous sage, forms the top note. This leads over to a smoky-powdery heart: Iris and incense, accompanied by dark green luminous geranium, which breathes the delicate echoes of Rose. The contrast between creamy vanilla spiced up by Tonka and masculine leather creates ambivalence that is skillfully enhanced by the salty-grassy smokiness of the vetiver."

Fragrance Composition:

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, sage, ginger, elemi-resin
• Middle notes: frankincense, geranium, iris
• Base notes: vetiver, tonka bean, bourbon vanilla, leather

Scent Profile:

The first impression of Ptah (2018) unfolds with an immediate brightness, as Calabrian bergamot releases a burst of citrus—crisp, sun-drenched, and slightly floral. Unlike bergamot from other regions, the variety grown in Calabria, Italy, is prized for its exceptional balance of tartness and smooth, almost honeyed depth. This radiant opening is quickly tempered by sage, an herbaceous counterpoint that adds an earthy, slightly peppery nuance, its dry, aromatic intensity evoking ancient rituals and sacred offerings. 

Ginger follows—a spark of heat that tingles on the skin, its citrusy zest and fiery warmth adding both vibrancy and movement to the composition. Completing this dynamic top accord is elemi resin, a precious gum harvested from trees in the Philippines, its lemony-balsamic profile lending an air of resinous clarity, as though one were standing in the grand halls of an Egyptian temple, where sacred incense lingers in the cool air.

As the fragrance evolves, a smoky-powdered heart emerges, where the sacred frankincense takes center stage. Extracted from the resin of trees in Oman, this frankincense is among the finest in the world, its profile oscillating between rich, balsamic smoke and delicate citrus undertones. This sacred resin has been burned in temples and tombs for millennia, its otherworldly aroma evoking mystery and spiritual transcendence. 

The iris—one of perfumery’s most aristocratic ingredients—brings a contrasting coolness, its buttery, powdery texture reminiscent of finely milled cosmetic powders and aged parchment. Unlike fresh florals, iris (or orris butter) takes years to develop its scent, yielding a velvety, almost suede-like elegance that tempers the raw intensity of the incense. Geranium, often described as the "green rose" of perfumery, adds a sharp, herbaceous brightness, its leafy citrus facets subtly echoing the bergamot of the opening while nodding to the floral heart of the vintage Ptah.

The base is a study in contrasts, a sensual interplay between warmth and depth, sweetness and smoke. Vetiver, sourced from Haiti, is particularly refined—its earthy, grassy aroma tinged with whispers of salt and damp wood, as if the roots themselves have absorbed the very essence of the land. This rugged greenness meets the velvety embrace of tonka bean, with its rich, almond-like warmth, its natural coumarin lending a subtle touch of hay and tobacco. 

The vanilla, sourced from Bourbon Island (Réunion), is darker and more complex than ordinary varieties, its boozy sweetness tinged with whispers of caramel and spice, wrapping the fragrance in a golden, almost molten richness. Finally, leather emerges, deep and seductive, its smoky, animalic facets grounding the composition with a luxurious, tactile sensuality. This final impression lingers like an ancient artifact rediscovered—timeless, enigmatic, and imbued with a power both intellectual and instinctual.

Through this intricate interplay of ingredients, Ptah (2018) is not simply a fragrance—it is an olfactory invocation, a scent that whispers of sacred rituals, royal dynasties, and the enduring power of the past to shape the present.