Bouquet Antique by Ciro c1923

Bouquet Antique by Ciro, launched in 1923, carries a name that suggests both timeless elegance and nostalgic romance. The phrase "Bouquet Antique" is French, pronounced "boo-KAY ahn-TEEK". "Bouquet" refers to a gathering of flowers, often with a rich and harmonious fragrance, while "Antique" conveys something aged, classic, or reminiscent of the past. Together, the name evokes an image of an opulent floral arrangement from a bygone era—perhaps a bouquet carefully preserved in an ornate vase, steeped in history and sentimentality. It suggests a fragrance that is deeply romantic, refined, and evocative of the grand traditions of perfumery.

The choice of such a name would have resonated with women of the 1920s, an era marked by both a fascination with the past and an embrace of modernity. The 1920s, often referred to as the Roaring Twenties or the Jazz Age, was a period of dramatic social change. World War I had ended just a few years earlier, and a newfound sense of liberation permeated fashion, art, and culture. Women had gained greater independence, reflected in their bolder attitudes, shorter hemlines, and daring bobbed hairstyles. Yet, even as they embraced modernity, there was a concurrent nostalgia for the elegance and refinement of previous centuries. The name Bouquet Antique would have appealed to this dual sensibility—offering a fragrance that felt luxurious and timeless while still suited to the confident, modern woman.

In terms of scent, the phrase "Bouquet Antique" suggests a rich, opulent floral composition, perhaps with warm, spicy undertones that give it a sense of depth and mystery. Given its classification as a soft, spicy floral oriental, one might imagine a blend of lush roses, jasmine, and ylang-ylang, softened by powdery iris and warm spices such as clove and cinnamon. The base would likely feature rich oriental elements—vanilla, amber, and a touch of exotic sandalwood and balsams, giving the impression of a luxurious, time-honored perfume. The softness of the fragrance would enhance its vintage feel, making it seem like a scent drawn from a delicate lace sachet or a grand dame’s dressing table.

An interesting aspect of Bouquet Antique is its marketing toward brunettes, a practice not uncommon in the early 20th century when perfumes were sometimes recommended based on hair color and personality traits. Brunettes were often associated with mystery, depth, and sophistication, in contrast to the bright and airy fragrances marketed toward blondes. This particular fragrance, with its soft, spicy floral oriental composition, would have been seen as sensual yet refined—perfect for a woman with dark, smoldering beauty.

In the context of other fragrances on the market at the time, Bouquet Antique was both in keeping with contemporary trends and distinctive in its own right. The 1920s saw the rise of aldehydic florals, most notably Chanel No. 5 (1921), but rich oriental and spicy floral perfumes were also en vogue, reflecting the era’s fascination with exoticism and opulence. Fragrances like Guerlain’s Shalimar (1925) and Houbigant’s Quelques Fleurs (1912) explored sensuality and florals in new ways. Bouquet Antique, with its soft spice and floral oriental character, likely aligned with this movement while offering a unique interpretation—one that was perhaps more delicate and nostalgic rather than overtly bold.

For the sophisticated woman of the Jazz Age, wearing Bouquet Antique would have been an expression of grace, femininity, and a connection to the past, all while navigating the exhilarating changes of the modern world.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Bouquet Antique by Ciro is classified as a soft, spicy floral oriental fragrance for women. 

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, aldehydes, Russian coriander, French carnation
• Middle notes: Grasse rose de mai absolute, Bulgarian rose otto, Grasse jasmine absolute, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Florentine orris root butter, Zanzibar clove, Jamaican nutmeg, Ceylon cinnamon
• Base notes: Madagascar vanilla, Venezuelan tonka bean, Somali opoponax, Siamese benzoin, Colombian tolu balsam, Indonesian patchouli, Mysore sandalwood, Tibetan musk, Abyssinian civet

Scent Profile:

Bouquet Antique by Ciro unfolds like a fragrant tapestry, woven with the finest and most evocative ingredients from across the globe. From the very first inhale, it transports the senses to distant lands, each note offering a glimpse into the lush landscapes and rich traditions from which it originates. This is not merely a perfume; it is a journey through scent, an intimate dance of softness, spice, and sensuality.

The opening is bright yet sophisticated, an elegant interplay of citrus, spice, and floral warmth. Calabrian bergamot, sourced from the sun-drenched groves of southern Italy, lends a sparkling, slightly floral citrus note, softer and more refined than its sharper counterparts. It intertwines with the golden glow of Sicilian lemon, famed for its crisp, tart brightness, adding a vivacious clarity to the first impression. 

As these citrus tones shimmer and fade, aldehydes emerge, lending an airy, luminous quality, like the glow of morning light through antique lace. Their effervescence is met with the unexpected warmth of Russian coriander, a spice that carries a delicate citrusy-green freshness underpinned by a slight peppery heat. French carnation, grown in the temperate climates of Grasse, blooms with a heady clove-like spiciness, its velvety petals tinged with a whisper of vintage elegance.

As the fragrance deepens, the floral heart reveals itself in full opulence. Grasse rose de mai absolute, cultivated in the historic perfume fields of southern France, brings a rare, honeyed sweetness—its dewy, pastel-pink petals carrying the softness of spring mornings. In contrast, Bulgarian rose otto, steam-distilled from the famed Valley of Roses, offers a richer, more sultry depth, with hints of warm tea and a velvety embrace. The intoxicating allure of Grasse jasmine absolute follows, its narcotic, slightly indolic intensity reminiscent of night-blooming petals under the stars. Exotic Nossi-Be ylang ylang, sourced from the remote island off the coast of Madagascar, adds a creamy, almost banana-like floral warmth, its sun-soaked richness smoothing the sharper edges of the bouquet.

But this floral splendor does not stand alone—it is entwined with the fire of spice. Florentine orris root butter, one of the most precious perfumery materials, lends a powdery, violet-like softness with a buttery texture, its presence reminiscent of vintage face powder and the soft rustle of silk. Against this backdrop, the heat of Zanzibar clove smolders, its rich, smoky warmth adding a touch of the exotic spice bazaars of the East. Jamaican nutmeg, with its slightly sweet, woody spice, lingers like the faintest whisper of an old-world apothecary, while Ceylon cinnamon, known for its delicate warmth and subtle sweetness, rounds out the heart with a refined sensuality.

As the scent settles into its base, it envelops the skin in a luxurious, resinous embrace. Madagascar vanilla, deep and creamy, exudes an unparalleled warmth, its intoxicating sweetness tempered by the hay-like, caramelized richness of Venezuelan tonka bean. The balsamic depth of Somali opoponax, sometimes referred to as sweet myrrh, adds a golden, honeyed glow, further intensified by the resinous warmth of Siamese benzoin, which carries the rich, ambery smoothness of sun-warmed temple incense. Colombian tolu balsam, prized for its deep, cinnamon-kissed vanilla and resinous amber nuances, infuses the fragrance with a comforting, almost velvety depth.

Wood and musk ground this decadent composition, adding both structure and sensuality. Indonesian patchouli, darker and earthier than its Indian counterpart, provides a deep, almost camphoraceous undertone that enhances the warmth of the spices. The creamy, almost sacred quality of Mysore sandalwood, revered for its unparalleled richness and smoothness, weaves through the base like an ancient relic polished by time. Tibetan musk, a rare and primal note, adds a shadowy, animalic sensuality, while Abyssinian civet, once a key ingredient in the most luxurious perfumes, imparts a warm, velvety depth that lingers on the skin like the ghost of a lover’s touch.

Bouquet Antique is a fragrance that feels both timeless and opulent, a perfume of whispered memories and quiet grandeur. It tells a story of rare ingredients, artfully blended into a composition that is as evocative as it is elegant. It is the scent of an heirloom lace handkerchief, of candlelit boudoirs, of a time when fragrance was not merely worn but experienced—a scented relic of an era that lingers long after it has faded from view.

Bottles:

The presentation of Bouquet Antique by Ciro was as exquisite as the fragrance itself, embodying the elegance and craftsmanship of the 1920s. The 2.5 oz deluxe parfum was housed in a breathtaking crystal bottle, its shape reminiscent of a delicate oval or pear, evoking the refinement of fine glass artistry. The bottle’s crowning glory was its fancy stopper, a sculptural masterpiece adorned with gold and deep blue enamel in the form of a drooping flower, symbolizing both grace and opulence. Every detail of the bottle reflected the era’s penchant for luxury, designed not merely to hold perfume but to be a treasured vanity object—a statement of sophistication and prestige.

To complement this striking flacon, the perfume was encased in a cylindrical satin box, richly hued in "King’s blue"—a deep, regal shade associated with nobility and refinement. The gold trimming added an extra touch of grandeur, enhancing the sense of exclusivity. Each box was wrapped in cellophane and tied with a gold cord, an elegant finishing touch that heightened the sense of anticipation upon unboxing. The presentation was as much a work of art as the fragrance itself, appealing to women who valued both beauty and craftsmanship.

For those who desired the luxury of Bouquet Antique in a more modest form, the 1.75 oz parfum offered the same refined bottle design in a slightly smaller size. While still a faithful replica of the larger flacon, it was housed in a richly paper-covered box instead of the deluxe satin case. This variation provided an accessible yet equally refined option, ensuring that the perfume could be enjoyed by a wider audience while maintaining its air of sophistication.

In 1927, the 2.5 oz deluxe parfum retailed for $17.50, while the 1.75 oz parfum was priced at $10.50. When adjusted for inflation, these amounts equate to $315.61 and $189.36 in 2024, underscoring the fragrance’s position as a true luxury item of its time. Such pricing placed Bouquet Antique among the most exclusive perfumes available, reserved for women who sought the finest in perfumery and presentation.

For those who preferred a lighter concentration, the Eau de Toilette was available in a generously sized 8 oz bottle, maintaining the same elegant design as the parfum but offering a more refreshing interpretation of the scent. This version allowed the fragrance to be applied more liberally, making it an ideal choice for daytime wear while still preserving the sophistication and artistry of the Bouquet Antique experience.

The packaging and presentation of Bouquet Antique were a reflection of the Golden Age of Perfumery, a period when fragrance was not just a scent but a symbol of status, romance, and self-expression. Each aspect of its design— from the sumptuous blue and gold packaging to the ornate floral stopper—was crafted to appeal to the discerning tastes of the era’s most stylish women. To own a bottle of Bouquet Antique was to own a piece of 1920s luxury, an objet d’art that captured the beauty, elegance, and romance of its time.

Bottles were available in various sizes:

• 5" tall bottle held 8 oz of Eau de Toilette
• 3.5" tall bottle held 2.5 oz of Parfum
• 2.75" tall bottle held held 1 oz of Parfum
• 1 3/8" tall (this mini did not appear until 1930)

 

 

Hearst's, 1928:

"All the Ciro Perfumes — including Doux Jasmin, Bouquet Antique, and Parfum Maskee — are made, packaged, and sealed in France."

Another bottle was used for Bouquet Antique and was a tall modified version of the round bottle. This newer bottle was cylindrical and tapered at the top, much like a cone, it had a molded, frosted glass stopper also in the shape of a flower. This Art Deco bottle was decorated with blue, yellow and black enamel. Bottle stands 3.25" tall.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Bouquet Antique by Ciro made its debut in 1923, arriving at a time when the world was embracing the elegance and modernity of the Roaring Twenties. This was an era of artistic innovation, shifting societal norms, and heightened luxury. Women were becoming more liberated, embracing bold fashion choices, shorter hemlines, and a newfound independence. Perfumery, too, was evolving, with complex, sophisticated compositions becoming highly sought after. Within this context, Bouquet Antique stood as a symbol of refined opulence, offering a fragrance that blended soft floral sensuality with warm, spicy oriental depth—a scent that spoke to the era’s fascination with glamour and indulgence.

For twelve years, Bouquet Antique captivated fragrance lovers with its exquisite blend of rich florals, spices, and resins. However, in 1935, the perfume was discontinued, likely due to shifting market trends and economic considerations. The world was on the cusp of great change, with the lingering effects of the Great Depression influencing luxury goods consumption. Perfume houses were adapting, and some fragrances fell out of favor as new compositions took center stage. Despite its official discontinuation, Bouquet Antique had already established itself as a beloved scent, its legacy lingering in the memories of those who cherished its opulent character.

Even after production ceased, remnants of Bouquet Antique continued to be sold. By 1941, old store stock was still available for purchase, a testament to its enduring appeal. This suggests that the perfume had retained a loyal following, with some women seeking to preserve the scent that had once been a staple of their personal elegance. The availability of old stock during the early 1940s also highlights the quality and longevity of perfumes from this golden age of perfumery, as well-preserved bottles would still have held their luxurious fragrance, offering a nostalgic link to the glamour of the 1920s.

Though Bouquet Antique ultimately faded from the market, its presence during the height of the Art Deco era and its lingering availability into the wartime years underscore its significance as a fragrance of both beauty and history. It remains a cherished name among perfume collectors and enthusiasts, a relic of an era when fragrance was more than just a scent—it was a statement of style, sophistication, and timeless allure.