Wednesday, December 20, 2017

Oh La La by Ciro c1959

Launched in 1959, Oh La La by Ciro was a fragrance that encapsulated the allure, romance, and effortless chic of Parisian style. The name itself—"Oh La La"—is a French expression, pronounced "ooh la la," used to convey surprise, admiration, or delight. Evocative of flirtation, elegance, and a touch of mischief, the phrase suggests an air of playful sophistication, perfectly suited to a perfume that aimed to capture the fantasy of Parisian romance in a bottle. By choosing this name, Ciro aligned the fragrance with the timeless allure of France, a country long revered as the epicenter of haute couture, luxury, and refined femininity.

The late 1950s was a period of transformation, a bridge between the refined post-war elegance of the early decade and the bolder, more liberated styles of the 1960s. The era was defined by the rise of cinematic glamour, with icons like Brigitte Bardot, Audrey Hepburn, and Sophia Loren epitomizing beauty and sophistication. In fashion, Christian Dior’s "New Look" silhouette still influenced women’s wardrobes, emphasizing nipped-in waists, voluminous skirts, and ultra-feminine tailoring, though by 1959, sleeker, more streamlined looks—like those by Hubert de Givenchy and Balenciaga—were gaining popularity. Perfumes of this time were reflections of femininity, sensuality, and luxury, designed to complement the poised yet smoldering woman of the era.

Oh La La’s fragrance composition was a study in contrasts, much like the paradoxes of Paris itself—both sophisticated and sultry, reserved yet undeniably romantic. The top notes opened with a brilliant aldehydic sparkle, creating an effervescent, champagne-like effect that immediately evoked the glimmering lights of Paris at night. A burst of citrus lent freshness and vitality, setting the stage for the unfolding drama of the heart notes. Here, the classic duo of rose and jasmine, two of perfumery’s most iconic florals, took center stage. Rich, velvety rose from Grasse provided a deep, romantic warmth, while the sensual, narcotic jasmine added an air of mystery, its white floral opulence tempered by the faintest whisper of spice. This delicate hint of warmth suggested intimacy, evoking the soft heat of candlelit dinners, stolen glances, and whispered rendezvous.


As the scent settled, it revealed a chypre base, a hallmark of classic perfumery that exuded depth and refinement. Ambergris contributed a sensual, animalic warmth, while a blend of precious woods—perhaps sandalwood, oakmoss, and vetiver—provided a grounding richness. This interplay of ingredients made Oh La La a fragrance that balanced light and dark, sparkle and shadow, innocence and seduction—just like Paris itself.

In the context of its time, Oh La La was both a product of its era and a continuation of enduring trends. The 1950s saw a rise in aldehydic floral fragrances, made famous by classics such as Chanel No. 5, which defined elegance with its effervescent, soapy-clean top and sophisticated florals. However, Oh La La set itself apart by infusing these elements with a more pronounced chypre-woody base, lending it a sultrier, more seductive quality. The contrast between its sparkling aldehydic opening and its warm, woody depths mirrored the complexity of the modern woman—poised yet passionate, graceful yet bold.

For women of the time, Oh La La would have been more than just a perfume—it was a statement, a transportive experience, a passport to the romance of Paris in a single spritz. Whether worn to an evening gala or a candlelit café, it was a scent that whispered intrigue and sophistication, leaving behind an air of effortless allure.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? Oh La La by Ciro is classified as an aldehydic woody floral fragrance for women. It begins with a sparkling aldehydic and citrus top, followed by a spicy floral heart of rose and jasmine, resting on a classic chypre base punctuated with warm woods and ambergris.
  • Top notes: Persian galbanum, aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Italian neroli, Sicilian lemon, Paraguayan petitgrain
  • Middle notes: Grasse rose, Comoros ylang ylang, Grasse jasmine, French carnation, Indian tuberose, Florentine orris, Zanzibar clove, Ceylon cinnamon
  • Base notes: Haitian vetiver, Maltese labdanum, Tonkin musk, Mysore sandalwood, Atlas cedar, ambergris, Indonesian patchouli, Yugoslavian oakmoss, Siamese benzoin, Venezuelan tonka bean, Honduran styrax, leather accord


A gay, sparkling scent of woods and amber —Oh La La by Ciro (perfume, 1 oz., $22.50)


Harper's Bazaar, 1959:
"Oh la la, Ciro's provocative new adventure in perfume, captures with admirable artistry everyone's most unashamedly romantic dream of Paris. Rose and jasmine components, barely haunted by spice, are at the heart of this scent — which is both sparkling and sultry, a pleasant paradox in perfume."

LIFE, 1961:
"Give it — and she'll say, "Oh La La." It's Paris in a perfume — too wonderful for words! . . . Created in France by Ciro, acclaimed around the world. 2 ounces $40, one ounce $22.50, half ounce $12.50. Also available, domestically blended: Eau de Parfum, Perfume Mist, Mist Concentre, Bath Powder, $3.00 to $5.00. And to capture, captivate every woman — try these other famed Ciro Fragrances: Reflexions®— gay, elegant, always remembered, $16 and $8 Danger®— definitely not for the timid, $17.50, $10, and $7."



Scent Profile:


From the first breath, Oh La La is a sparkling revelation—a perfume that captures the essence of vintage glamour, its brilliance unfolding in layers as each note emerges.

The fragrance opens with a burst of Persian galbanum, its sharp, resinous green quality adding a crisp, slightly bitter brightness that cuts through the air like the first light of dawn. The aldehydes effervesce, lending an airy, champagne-like sparkle that shimmers over the composition, elevating it with a cool, slightly soapy elegance. A cascade of Calabrian bergamot and Sicilian lemon follows, their citrusy radiance diffusing like golden sunlight, both tart and uplifting, while the honeyed floral undertones of Italian neroli weave a refined, luminous sweetness. The crisp, slightly woody touch of Paraguayan petitgrain adds depth to the citrus accord, its green bitterness complementing the aldehydes and setting the stage for the complexity to come.

As the fragrance evolves, it unfolds a heart of floral richness, where each bloom brings its own personality. Grasse rose, the queen of flowers, reigns supreme—its velvety, slightly honeyed petals evoking romance, its deep and heady scent amplified by the waxy, indolic lushness of Grasse jasmine. The powdery, clove-tinged warmth of French carnation laces the bouquet with a touch of vintage sophistication, while Comoros ylang ylang spills its exotic, banana-like creaminess into the mix, adding an opulent glow. 

The narcotic allure of Indian tuberose rises—a white floral with buttery, mentholated facets, intensifying the sultry floral heart. Beneath it all, the cool, violet-like powderiness of Florentine orris adds a soft, almost suede-like texture, enhancing the smoothness of the composition. Spices lace the florals with intrigue: Zanzibar clove, warm and slightly medicinal, adds a flicker of heat, while the refined sweetness of Ceylon cinnamon weaves through the heart, its faint woody undertone hinting at the depth to come.

The dry down is where Oh La La lingers most beautifully, its chypre base unfolding like the soft embrace of a well-worn cashmere wrap. Haitian vetiver, smoky yet slightly grassy, anchors the perfume with an earthy, grounding quality, its dryness balanced by the rich, balsamic glow of Maltese labdanum. The elusive sensuality of Tonkin musk emerges—a warm, animalic whisper that blends seamlessly into the creamy depth of Mysore sandalwood, whose unparalleled smoothness and rich, milky-woody facets lend an almost sacred tranquility to the scent. 

Atlas cedar, dry and slightly pencil-shavings-like, mingles with the smoky, resinous hum of Honduran styrax, adding a leathery nuance that enhances the overall warmth. Indonesian patchouli, dark and velvety, whispers of damp earth and aged wood, while Yugoslavian oakmoss, with its mossy bitterness, imparts the unmistakable depth of a true chypre. The golden glow of ambergris lingers—a salty, almost skin-like radiance that subtly amplifies every note. Finally, Siamese benzoin and Venezuelan tonka bean melt into one another, their vanilla-balsamic sweetness adding a final touch of warmth, a soft exhalation of indulgence.

Oh La La is more than a fragrance—it is a journey through time, a whisper of 1950s elegance, where aldehydic brilliance meets the sultry depth of warm woods and florals. It is the scent of an evening gown brushing against polished parquet floors, of lipstick-stained cigarette holders and knowing glances exchanged in dimly lit Parisian cafés. A perfume that lingers, captivates, and leaves behind only the memory of Oh La La…


Bottles:

You will probably come across this square parfum bottle most often. It is fitted with a gold tone screw cap. It was available in four sizes:
  • 5ml miniature
  • 1/2 oz (15ml)
  • 1 oz (30ml)
  • 2 oz (60ml)



Less commonly found are the hourglass shaped bottles. The parfum flacon has a frosted glass stopper in the shape of a fan. 




Eau de Cologne and Bath Oil (Esscent) was available in a modified form of the parfum flacon, but fitted with a screw cap.


Other bottles were also used.


Harper's Bazaar, 1965:
"A delightful new caprice from Parfums Ciro is a Genuine Spray of that gay fragrance Oh La La“genuine,” they say, because it gives you pure spray, emphasizing the full brilliance of this delicious scent. Applied in metered amounts at pulse points, Oh La La Genuine Spray plays back a lingering symphony of woodsy fragrance, sparked with heavenly top notes of rose and jasmine. Refillable glass flacon in an elegant ripple motif. $5." 

Soap, Cosmetics, Chemical Specialties, 1966:
"Three new fragrances, "Danger," "Reflections," and "New Horizons," are now being marketed by Parfums Ciro division of Warner- Lambert Pharmaceutical Co., Morris Plains, N. J., in refillable two-ounce "genuine spray," with pump from Valve Corp. of America, Bridgeport, Conn. As companion products to "Oh La La" spray which was introduced last year, the new fragrances are presented in the same ripple-motif glass flacon, packaged in a white box encircled vertically with a pink,..."


Fate of the Fragrance:


Launched in 1959, Oh La La by Ciro emerged at the dawn of a new decade, capturing the allure and sophistication of its time. A fragrance of undeniable elegance, it reflected the late 1950s' embrace of refined femininity while hinting at the bolder, more liberated sensibilities that would define the 1960s. With its aldehydic brilliance, floral opulence, and warm chypre base, Oh La La became a signature scent for women who exuded confidence and charm. It remained a cherished presence well into the early 1970s, still available in 1970, before quietly fading from the market. Its discontinuation marked the end of an era for Ciro, as changing tastes and trends in perfumery ushered in a new generation of fragrances. Yet, for those who wore it, Oh La La lingered in memory—a perfume that captured the romance of Paris, the glamour of the silver screen, and the timeless allure of a whispered exclamation: Oh la la!

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