Saturday, August 26, 2017

Surrender by Ciro c1932

Launched in 1932, Surrender by Ciro arrived during a time of immense transition and resilience. The name itself, Surrender, is evocative—derived from the Old French surrendre, meaning "to give up, deliver over" and ultimately from the Latin rendere, "to give back." In English, surrender can imply yielding, giving in to emotion, passion, or an irresistible force. This name suggests a fragrance that invites complete immersion—perhaps a surrender to beauty, to romance, or to the fleeting intoxication of a white floral dream. The word conjures images of moonlit gardens, whispered confessions, and the kind of irresistible allure that one cannot fight. There is a softness in the surrender, not one of defeat but of willing abandon, of yielding to something greater than oneself—perhaps love, perhaps desire, or simply the pleasures of fragrance itself.

The early 1930s were defined by both glamour and struggle. The world was deep in the throes of the Great Depression, a period of economic hardship that followed the exuberance of the Roaring Twenties. Despite financial challenges, luxury and escapism remained central themes in fashion and beauty. Hollywood’s Golden Age flourished, offering an escape from reality through silver-screen starlets like Jean Harlow and Marlene Dietrich, who exuded an untouchable, polished beauty. Evening gowns of bias-cut silk clung to the body like liquid, mirroring the fluid sensuality of surrender itself. Daywear became more refined, with elegant tailoring, high necklines, and sculpted silhouettes that gave women an air of power, even as society itself was shifting.

Perfume during this era reflected a need for both comfort and seduction. While opulent fragrances of the 1920s—laden with heavy aldehydes and intoxicating florals—still lingered, the 1930s saw a shift toward softer, more delicate compositions. Surrender fits seamlessly into this transformation, offering a lighter, airier floral with an oriental warmth that made it ideal for warmer weather. The choice of magnolia as its central note evokes a timeless femininity—lush, lemony, yet creamy and soft. This was a scent that suggested romance, sophistication, and quiet strength, qualities that resonated deeply with the women of the time.


If one were to interpret the word Surrender in scent, it would be a fragrance that unfolds with gentle persuasion rather than force. The opening would be luminous and inviting, an airy floral that beckons rather than overwhelms. The white blossoms of magnolia, jasmine, and tuberose would float like silk on warm skin, offering a sensual yet delicate embrace. The scent would never demand attention but rather lure one in with its soft, intoxicating presence. A subtle oriental base—hints of vanilla, ambergris, and sandalwood—would add a quiet depth, whispering of passion but never overpowering the ethereal florals above.

Women in the 1930s were navigating a world in flux. They had tasted independence during the previous decade—flappers had defied convention with short hair, shorter skirts, and a rebellious spirit—but by the early 1930s, femininity was returning to a more refined, elegant aesthetic. Surrender would have appealed to women who wanted grace without ostentation, sensuality without excess. It was not a fragrance of the rebellious youth but rather of the sophisticated woman who had learned to balance romance and resilience, glamour and practicality.

The 1930s were an era of transition in perfumery. The bold, heavily aldehydic fragrances of the 1920s, such as Chanel No. 5 (1921) and Lanvin’s Arpège (1927), were still beloved, but softer, more naturalistic florals began to take center stage. Scents featuring white florals like jasmine, gardenia, and magnolia became especially desirable, reflecting the shift toward a more understated elegance. Surrender was not necessarily avant-garde, but it was a perfect expression of its time, offering a white floral scent that was both light enough for daily wear and sophisticated enough for evening affairs.

In essence, Surrender by Ciro was a fragrance of quiet power—one that did not need to shout to be heard. It was a soft yet confident expression of femininity, a scent that invited its wearer to lose herself in its luminous embrace, to yield—if only for a moment—to the beauty of scent itself.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? Surrender by Ciro is classified as a white floral oriental fragrance for women and was described as a light magnolia scent perfect for warmer weather.  
  • Top notes: Italian citrus, spices, Alpine lily of the valley, Italian neroli, Japanese honeysuckle and Tuscan violet, Dutch narcissus
  • Middle notes: Grasse jasmine, Indian tuberose, Chinese magnolia, French carnation, Florentine iris, Tunisian orange blossom, French carnation, Bulgarian rose, Peruvian heliotrope
  • Base notes: Java vetiver, Mexican vanilla, ambergris, Italian orris butter, Omani frankincense, Mysore sandalwood, Venezuelan tonka bean, Maltese labdanum, Tyrolean oakmoss, Colombian tolu balsam.


L'Amour de l'art, 1950:
"Surrender by Ciro: a perfume with a lulling rhythm that charms you with a delicious note based on vetiver."


Scent Profile:


The first breath of Surrender is radiant and fresh, as if stepping into a sunlit garden in early morning. Italian citrus opens with a vibrant, golden brightness—perhaps the tart sparkle of bergamot or the juicy zest of sweet oranges, their rinds bursting with effervescent oil. The citrus is dusted with an inviting blend of spices, subtle yet warming, like a delicate pinch of cinnamon or clove drifting through the air. Alpine lily of the valley, rare and crystalline, adds a green, dewy purity, its delicate bell-shaped blossoms releasing an airy, almost aqueous sweetness. Italian neroli, extracted from the bitter orange blossoms of Liguria, brings an intoxicating, slightly honeyed floralcy, shimmering with crisp, citrusy freshness.

A surprising touch of Japanese honeysuckle entwines itself into the bouquet, offering a nectar-like sweetness laced with a touch of green. This is met by Tuscan violet, a soft, powdery whisper of purple blooms, its velvety petals lending an almost nostalgic, old-world elegance. Then, Dutch narcissus arrives—a bold and complex floral note, with a heady, almost green-leather nuance that deepens the opening accord, hinting at the sensual richness to come.

As Surrender unfolds, its heart reveals a sumptuous white floral symphony, each bloom unfurling with intoxicating richness. Grasse jasmine, the finest in the world, radiates with its lush, sun-warmed sweetness, intertwining with Indian tuberose, whose creamy opulence is both hypnotic and seductive. Chinese magnolia takes center stage, exuding a fresh, lemony sweetness tinged with waxy, petal-soft smoothness—a note that feels almost weightless, floating atop the bouquet like a silk veil in a warm breeze.

Adding a subtle, peppery contrast is French carnation, its slightly clove-like bite accentuating the surrounding florals. Florentine iris, one of the most precious materials in perfumery, lends a soft, powdery depth, its buttery smoothness grounding the heart in understated elegance. Tunisian orange blossom, sun-drenched and honeyed, brings a radiant, citrusy glow that complements the jasmine and magnolia. The floral richness is further deepened by Bulgarian rose, its velvety, slightly jammy petals infusing the composition with a touch of romance, while Peruvian heliotrope adds a whisper of almond-tinged, vanilla-like sweetness, softening the sharper floral edges into a seamless blend.

As the fragrance settles, its base is warm, sensual, and deeply comforting, embracing the skin in an oriental caress. Java vetiver, with its earthy, smoky depth, provides a grounding contrast to the luminous florals, while Mexican vanilla brings a rich, gourmand sweetness, its creamy warmth melting into the composition like liquid gold. Ambergris, rare and ethereal, adds a salty, almost skin-like warmth, extending the fragrance’s longevity with a delicate, oceanic smoothness.

The luxurious depth of Italian orris butter enhances the scent’s powdery softness, its velvety texture mingling with the sacred, resinous warmth of Omani frankincense—a mystical touch of smoky, balsamic spice that lingers like an ancient whisper. Mysore sandalwood, prized for its creamy, almost milky softness, melts into the blend, while Venezuelan tonka bean introduces a rich, caramelized warmth, its facets of tobacco and almond lending a seductive roundness. The lingering embrace of Maltese labdanum, dark and ambery, mingles with the earthy, mossy richness of Tyrolean oakmoss, adding a chypre-like elegance to the drydown. Finally, Colombian tolu balsam, with its sweet, resinous warmth, wraps Surrender in an ambered haze, leaving a lasting trail of quiet sensuality.

Like a whisper of silk against bare skin, Surrender is an ode to effortless elegance and soft-spoken seduction—an exquisite balance between luminous florals and the comforting warmth of precious resins, woods, and vanilla. It is a fragrance that speaks of romantic twilight hours, where magnolia blossoms release their fragrance into the warm evening air, and the world feels wrapped in golden, floral-infused light.


Bottles:


Surrender was originally launched in a clear crystal faceted diamond shaped bottle, made by Baccarat. It was housed in a velvet, hinged presentation box that had a small mirror that sat behind the bottle,  reinforcing the brilliant refraction of the faceted glass bottle. Other less expensive editions were produced by other companies and were contained in different bottles and packaging.

















Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued. Still being sold in 1969.

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