Le Chevalier de la Nuit—a name that whispers mystery and romance—was launched in France in 1923 by Parfums Ciro, with its American debut following in 1924. The name, pronounced luh shuh-vah-lee-ay duh lah nwee, translates from French as "The Knight of the Night." This evocative title conjures images of a gallant, enigmatic figure cloaked in moonlight, a protector and seducer in equal measure. The phrase suggests both strength and sensuality, capturing the duality of chivalry and passion. It is a name designed to intrigue, to suggest an untold story unfolding in the twilight hours—a fitting inspiration for a fragrance meant to be worn with confidence and allure.
The early 1920s, often referred to as the Roaring Twenties or the Années Folles (Crazy Years) in France, was a time of dramatic social and cultural transformation. Women were embracing newfound independence, shedding the constraints of pre-war society, and stepping into the modern world with boldness. The flapper era had arrived—hemlines rose, hair was bobbed, and attitudes toward femininity became more daring. In perfumery, this period marked a shift away from the delicate soliflores of the past toward richer, more complex compositions that exuded sensuality and power. Le Chevalier de la Nuit, described as a floral oriental fragrance, fit perfectly within this trend. Advertisements of the time spoke of its "exotic, fascinating" character, its "mysterious, intriguing" essence—qualities that resonated with the women who now adorned themselves in luxurious furs, reveled in jazz-filled soirées, and lived by the mantra of elegance with an edge.
A floral oriental fragrance would have translated this idea into scent through an intoxicating interplay of notes. The floral heart—jasmine, orange blossom, and ylang-ylang—offer a soft yet sultry allure, while rich oriental elements such as ambergris, vanilla, and resins create warmth and longevity. A touch of spice, clove and cinnamon, added intrigue, while a base of sandalwood, musk, and precious balsams ensured the fragrance clung seductively to fur and silk, as the advertisements suggested. Le Chevalier de la Nuit was not a perfume for the demure; it was a statement of sophistication, a scent that lingered in the air like an elegant whisper, leaving a trail of intrigue in its wake.
In the competitive landscape of 1920s perfumery, Le Chevalier de la Nuit stood out not only for its olfactory composition but also for its striking presentation. The bottle was designed to reflect the armor of a medieval knight, with a stopper shaped like a plumed helmet—a fitting tribute to its name. This was a time when perfume houses sought to create not just scents but objets d'art, where a bottle was as much a collector’s piece as it was a vessel for fragrance. Ciro’s decision to embrace such a bold, knightly aesthetic set Le Chevalier de la Nuit apart from its more traditionally feminine counterparts.
By choosing such a name and concept, Ciro tapped into the fascination with medieval romance, chivalry, and mystery, all while catering to the modern woman who was forging her own path in a rapidly changing world. To wear Le Chevalier de la Nuit was to embrace a persona—elegant yet daring, sophisticated yet sensual, a woman who moved through the night with an air of noble intrigue.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Chevalier de la Nuit by Ciro is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.In old advertisements, the perfume was described as "an exotic, fascinating fragrance whose romantic overtones are beautifully expressed by its name, a lasting perfume, and particularly adaptable to furs. It has a singular sweetness, not found in most heavy odors, and while it is a mysterious, intriguing and essentially a formal perfume, it may be worn at any time of day."
- Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, Tunisian orange blossom, Italian neroli
- Middle notes: Indian tuberose, Chinese gardenia, Grasse jasmine, Grasse rose, Florentine orris, Zanzibar clove, ylang ylang, Ceylon cinnamon
- Base notes: Haitian vetiver, musk, ambergris, Mysore sandalwood, Bourbon vanilla, Yugoslavian oakmoss, Venezuelan tonka bean, Siamese benzoin, balsams
Hearst's, 1928:
"But be she queen or maid, rich or poor, she wants with all her heart to be remembered. Chevalier de la Nuit. the "Knight of the Night", is a scent of singular individuality, conceived and sealed by Ciro, in Paris. In its fragrance lurks a loveliness quite new. It is haunting, yet elusive — sensuous, yet exquisite."
Hearst's, 1928:
"Ciro's Parfum — Chevalier de la Nuit, the "Knight of the Night". . . a strange, delicate scent."
Scent Profile:
Chevalier de la Nuit by Ciro unfolds like a moonlit sonata, each note a whisper of intrigue, a brushstroke of romance. From the first breath, an effervescent brilliance awakens the senses—the radiant Calabrian bergamot, renowned for its sun-drenched vibrancy, bursts forth with a golden citrus glow, tempered by the honeyed, slightly green nuances of Tunisian orange blossom. This North African bloom, warmed by the Mediterranean sun, is richer and deeper than its European counterparts, lending a touch of luminous sweetness without becoming overpowering. The addition of Italian neroli, distilled from the same orange blossoms but capturing their most delicate essence, infuses the opening with an ethereal, almost dewy freshness—a fleeting moment of innocence before the perfume plunges into its opulent floral heart.
As the top notes fade, a lush floral tapestry unfurls, each petal unveiling its own hypnotic beauty. The Indian tuberose, narcotic and velvety, emerges first—its heady, creamy presence both intoxicating and sensual. This is no ordinary tuberose; from the soils of India, where the heat intensifies its potency, it carries an almost buttery, carnal warmth. The Chinese gardenia, a symbol of mystery and refinement, weaves through the bouquet, its waxy, slightly green floralcy adding a counterbalance to the tuberose’s sultry depth. From Grasse, the perfume capital of France, come two of the most coveted blooms in perfumery—Grasse jasmine and Grasse rose. The jasmine, bathed in the soft warmth of the Provençal sun, is luminous and honeyed, its narcotic sweetness underscoring the rich, powdery elegance of the rose. Unlike the sharper Damascus variety, the Grasse rose is rounder, fruitier, with a soft, velvety embrace that whispers of luxury.
Enhancing this floral opulence, Florentine orris lends an aristocratic refinement, its rooty, violet-like powderiness deepening the composition, imparting a creamy, suede-like texture. The exotic warmth of Zanzibar clove and Ceylon cinnamon weaves through the bouquet, their piquant spice adding a whisper of intrigue—an almost shadowy presence that hints at something untamed beneath the perfume’s regal façade. A touch of ylang-ylang, tropical and luminous, melts seamlessly into the florals, its custard-like richness echoing the golden warmth of the opening citrus.
As the scent deepens, Chevalier de la Nuit reveals its noble foundation, a base as enigmatic as its name. Haitian vetiver, known for its smoky, earthy depth, mingles with the sensual animalic allure of musk and the saline warmth of ambergris, an ingredient treasured for its ability to lend a soft, oceanic luminosity to perfumes. The revered Mysore sandalwood, with its unparalleled creamy, almost incense-like smoothness, forms the heart of the base, embracing the wearer in an enveloping warmth.
A whisper of Bourbon vanilla, grown in the fertile soils of Réunion, adds an exotic, subtly boozy sweetness, its rich balsamic undertones blending seamlessly with the damp, forest-like depth of Yugoslavian oakmoss. This moss, darker and earthier than others, grounds the perfume in a chypre-like sensuality, allowing the velvety, tobacco-like richness of Venezuelan tonka bean and the resinous warmth of Siamese benzoin to linger on the skin. In the background, a medley of balsams, deep and smoky, completes the composition, leaving behind a seductive, lingering trail—like the whisper of a knight’s cloak disappearing into the night.
The result is a fragrance that embodies its name—a Chevalier de la Nuit, a noble guardian of twilight, cloaked in shadow and moonlight. This perfume is at once aristocratic and untamed, refined yet mysterious. It lingers in the air, much like the memory of a forbidden rendezvous, its romance woven into the very fabric of the night.
A 1928 ad:
The result is a fragrance that embodies its name—a Chevalier de la Nuit, a noble guardian of twilight, cloaked in shadow and moonlight. This perfume is at once aristocratic and untamed, refined yet mysterious. It lingers in the air, much like the memory of a forbidden rendezvous, its romance woven into the very fabric of the night.
Bottles:
A 1928 ad:
"Chevalier de la Nuit from Ciro is a perfume for the sophisticate. Smartly bottled and cased $10. And the toilet water is $8.50."
Garden & Home Builder, 1928:
"Ciro offers in this attractive black bottle his famous 'Chevalier de la Nuit
American Druggist - Volumes 79-80, 1929:
"Ciro's Chevalier de la Nuit One of the most surprising new products of recent months has been Ciro's Chevalier de la Nuit. Offered first about the Christmas season in department and a few drug stores at $4.50 it showed such sales that manufacturers are offering it generally to the trade. The bottle - a romantic affair, - stands nearly a foot in height and is fashioned in France of hand-burnished glass. The stopper is a replica of a plumed helmet . The bottle duplicates the body armor of a knight of the crusades."
The bottle design adds another layer of charm to the allure of "Le Chevalier de la Nuit." Shaped like a suit of armor with a heart at its center, adorned with a visored, be-plumed helmet stopper, it embodies the romantic and chivalrous spirit evoked by its name. The attention to detail, from the choice of materials to the gilded highlights, reflects the elegance and luxury associated with the fragrance.
The versatility of the bottle, available in various styles including black opaque glass, clear and frosted glass, and clear and frosted glass with gilded highlights, ensured that there was an option to suit every taste and occasion. The design, patented by Guy T. Gibson in 1925, showcases the creativity and craftsmanship of the era, making it not only a vessel for perfume but also a work of art worthy of display.
With its unique and ornate design, the bottle of "Le Chevalier de la Nuit" would indeed have made a memorable and cherished Christmas gift, adding a touch of glamour and sophistication to the holiday season.
The bottles were designed by Julien Viard and may have been made by Depinoix. Ciro's founder, Guy T. Gibson (JS Wiedhopf) filed a design patent for the bottle and was granted patent number 68,779 on November 17, 1925.
The parfum bottles, in clear and frosted glass, came in various sizes:
- 7 1/2" tall
- 5 3/8" tall
- 4 3/4" tall
- 4 " tall
- 3 1/4" tall
- 2 3/8" tall
The black frosted glass bottle came in two sizes:
- 4 1/2" tall
- 4 3/4" tall
An Eau de Toilette bottle, in clear and frosted glass, was slightly different from the parfum flacon, and it had a shield shaped label, this bottle stood around 7 1/4" tall. The variation in design between the Eau de Toilette bottle and the parfum flacon adds an interesting dimension to the presentation of "Le Chevalier de la Nuit." The shield-shaped label on the Eau de Toilette bottle likely contributed to its distinctiveness, providing a visual differentiation from the parfum flacon while maintaining a cohesive theme.
Standing around 7.25" tall, the Eau de Toilette bottle would have exuded a sense of presence and elegance, making it a striking addition to any vanity or dressing table. The clear and frosted glass combination would have added a touch of sophistication, allowing glimpses of the fragrance within while retaining an air of mystery.
This variation in bottle design speaks to the attention to detail and commitment to quality associated with "Le Chevalier de la Nuit," ensuring that each presentation of the fragrance was a testament to the luxury and allure it represented.
I wanted to make mention that in 1934, Edward G. Westlake, working on behalf of Marshall Field, "invented" this exact same bottle as seen in this patent drawing. This bottle was made in Czechoslovakia and sold by Marshall Field using their Aristo subsidiary, also known as McCoy, Jones and Westlake. These Czech copies of the bottle are not marked "France" on the base.
It's intriguing to see the cross-cultural influence and adaptations within the perfume industry during that era. Edward G. Westlake's recreation of the bottle design, patented in 1934, suggests a recognition of the appeal and uniqueness of the original design of "Le Chevalier de la Nuit."
The fact that these bottles were made in Czechoslovakia and sold by Marshall Field under their Aristo subsidiary, also known as McCoy, Jones, and Westlake, highlights the international nature of the fragrance industry and the collaboration between different companies and artisans to bring these creations to life.
The absence of the "France" mark on the base of these Czech copies indicates a departure from the original source but underscores the enduring popularity and desirability of the design. It's a testament to the enduring legacy of "Le Chevalier de la Nuit" and its influence on perfume bottle design during that time.
Starting in 1931, a small cylindrical, clear glass bottle was also used, it had a small boule stopper made of clear glass and a tiny rectangular label. This bottle held 1 oz of parfum, stood 9cm tall, and was also used for other Ciro perfumes. The introduction of the small cylindrical clear glass bottle with a boule stopper and a tiny rectangular label in 1931 provides another fascinating glimpse into the packaging evolution of Ciro perfumes, including "Le Chevalier de la Nuit."
This compact and minimalist design, standing at 9cm tall and holding 1 oz of parfum, would have offered a more streamlined and contemporary alternative to the elaborate armor-shaped flacons. Its simplicity likely appealed to those who preferred a more understated presentation while still indulging in the luxurious fragrance within.
The versatility of this bottle, also used for other Ciro perfumes, speaks to its practicality and efficiency in production and distribution. Its adaptability across various fragrances underscores the brand's commitment to quality and consistency in presentation.
Overall, this small cylindrical bottle adds another dimension to the diverse range of packaging options available for "Le Chevalier de la Nuit" and other Ciro perfumes, catering to a broader spectrum of consumer preferences and tastes.
Drug & Cosmetic Industry, 1935:
"CIRO'S exquisite perfume odors, Doux Jasmin, Chevalier de la Nuit, Gardenia Sauvage, as well as an eau de cologne, have been developed in toilet waters known as "Eau de Ciro". The cone shaped bottle decorated with a silver top and label forms an attractive addition to bath shelf and dressing table."
In 1938, these Eau de Ciro toilet waters were being presented in eight sided glass bottles with screw caps and a long rectangular label down the front of the bottle. Available in Surrender, Danger, Reflexions, Gardenia Sauvage and Doux Jasmin. The Eau de Ciro was also available in a matching atomizer bottle.
The expansion of Ciro's fragrance offerings to include Eau de Ciro toilet waters in addition to their exquisite perfumes adds another dimension to the brand's olfactory repertoire. The transition from the cone-shaped bottle with a silver top and label to the eight-sided glass bottles with screw caps and long rectangular labels in 1938 reflects an evolution in packaging design while maintaining an emphasis on elegance and sophistication.
The availability of these Eau de Ciro toilet waters in various scents, including Surrender, Danger, Reflexions, Gardenia Sauvage, and Doux Jasmin, offers consumers a diverse range of options to suit different preferences and occasions. The matching atomizer bottle further enhances the luxurious experience of using these fragrances, adding a touch of glamour to the application process.
The attention to detail in the packaging, from the design of the bottles to the labeling, underscores Ciro's commitment to quality and craftsmanship, ensuring that each product is not only a sensorial delight but also a visual delight, adding a touch of refinement to any bath shelf or dressing table.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Cue, 1948:
"The return of one of France's favorite perfumes, Chevalier de la Nuit, is heralded for the Christmas season. This is, of course, the famous Ciro scent whose bottle is a suit of armor and its stopper a visor with a plumed helmet. This will be available for your Christmas favorite in one ounce bottles, only at $15."
The perfume was still being sold in 1950. Ciro stopped making perfumes in 1961.
The discontinuation and subsequent re-introduction of "Chevalier de la Nuit" in the USA, particularly during the period surrounding World War II, reflect the challenges and disruptions faced by the perfume industry during times of global conflict. The cessation of its availability during the war years followed by its return in 1948 highlights the resilience of the brand and its enduring appeal to consumers.
The nostalgic tone of the advertisements from 1948, describing "Chevalier de la Nuit" as a beloved favorite returning just in time for Christmas, evokes a sense of anticipation and excitement among perfume enthusiasts. The iconic imagery of the bottle, reminiscent of a suit of armor with a plumed helmet stopper, would have stirred memories and associations for those familiar with the fragrance, adding to its allure as a timeless classic.
While it's unfortunate that there are limited newspaper references to "Chevalier de la Nuit" after 1950, its continued availability until that time speaks to its enduring popularity and appeal. Ciro's decision to cease perfume production in 1961 marked the end of an era for the brand, but "Chevalier de la Nuit" remains a cherished memory for those who were fortunate enough to experience its enchanting aroma.
2018 Reformulation& Reissue:
In 2018, I was notified that Parfums Ciro had been resurrected and their website www.ciroparfums.com now offers fragrances based on their originals. One such perfume is the once popular Chevalier de la Nuit, recreated by Alexander Streeck.
It's wonderful to hear that the legacy of Parfums Ciro lives on through the resurrection of their fragrances, including the iconic "Chevalier de la Nuit." The recreation of this once-popular perfume by Alexander Streeck allows new generations to experience the timeless allure and enchanting aroma of this classic fragrance.
With advancements in technology and fragrance formulation techniques, modern interpretations of classic perfumes can capture the essence of the originals while also offering contemporary nuances and enhancements. It's a testament to the enduring appeal of "Chevalier de la Nuit" that it continues to inspire perfumers and fragrance enthusiasts alike, even decades after its initial creation.
For those who have fond memories of the original "Chevalier de la Nuit" or are intrigued by its romantic history, the opportunity to explore its reincarnation through Parfums Ciro's offerings provides a delightful journey into the past, infused with a touch of modern elegance.
From the website:
"The night breaks in, everything plunges into its deep darkness. Sounds velvety and inky blue. And thus creates the ideal stage for those who have committed to it. They swarm, in search of adventure or diversion, after experience and pleasure. Shimmering their silhouettes stand out from the darkness as they stroll seemingly aimlessly through the streets. Knights of the big city and conquerors - they own them, the night with its endless possibilities.
CHEVALIER DE LA NUIT is dedicated to those who are guided by their passion.
The fire kindles CHEVALIER DE LA NUIT with racy clove, which makes up the distinctive heart of the fragrance. Spicy, it shows as well as a spirited sharpness, which is inspired by eucalyptus freshness. Their powdery facets are emphasized by iris and dark patchouli and finely smoky finished by vetiver. Hesperia fruits provide a dynamic, citrusy echo, while exquisite sandalwood adds balsamic, along with delicious bourbon vanilla, sweetly savoring the perfume."
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like?
- Top notes: Calabrian citrus fruits, bitter orange, Indonesian patchouli
- Middle notes: jasmine, iris, Hawaiian vetiver, Malagasy clove
- Base notes: white musk, Australian eucalyptus, Indian sandalwood, Bourbon vanilla
Scent Profile:
As the citrus notes slowly fade, the fragrance begins to darken with the earthy, almost smoky richness of Indonesian patchouli. Sourced from the rich, tropical soil of Indonesia, this patchouli is deep and nuanced, its slightly minty, camphoraceous qualities adding a grounding earthiness that feels ancient, like a shadow moving silently through the night. It’s far more refined than the raw, overwhelming patchouli sometimes found in more modern formulations. Here, it’s part of a lush, mysterious symphony, lingering in the background, inviting you to take another breath.
The heart of Chevalier de la Nuit is where the fragrance deepens and opens up into a more luxurious, almost floral space. The jasmine here is radiant and opulent, with its lush, white, almost creamy floralcy filling the air like the warm embrace of summer nights in bloom. This jasmine has a richness that pulls you in, sweet but never cloying, with an intoxicating depth. Paired with iris, the fragrance takes on a refined, powdery aspect, reminiscent of vintage perfumes, adding a soft, delicate veil of sophistication. Iris, especially the prized Florentine iris, is renowned for its elegant, almost rooty, powdery scent—a refined powderiness that is neither too floral nor too woody, but balances both in a chic, understated elegance.
The middle notes are further enriched by the earthy, green-woody quality of Hawaiian vetiver. Vetiver from Hawaii is prized for its subtlety—less smoky than its Haitian counterpart, it offers a cleaner, fresher earthiness. It’s woody and aromatic, evoking the lush, humid landscapes of the islands. There’s something almost meditative about the way the vetiver unfolds in this scent—gentle, calm, and grounding, like the rustling of leaves underfoot in the forest.
As the fragrance moves into its base, the soft, ethereal warmth of white musk emerges, a clean, airy presence that wraps around the other notes like a second skin. White musk is light and translucent, offering a tender, skin-like warmth that feels both intimate and comforting. The fragrance continues to develop with a crisp, slightly medicinal note of Australian eucalyptus. More than just fresh, eucalyptus in this context is cool and sharp, its minty quality cutting through the warmth of the other notes and providing a refreshing contrast. It’s a unique twist in this fragrance, adding an almost cleansing airiness that balances the richness of the florals and woods.
The base is anchored in the rich, creamy smoothness of Indian sandalwood, the gold standard of sandalwood for its fine, smooth, and creamy texture. Indian sandalwood is known for its warm, woodsy character—sophisticated and luxurious, it blends seamlessly with the other notes, giving the fragrance a solid foundation that feels both elegant and earthy. Finally, the comforting sweetness of Bourbon vanilla enters the scene, its smooth, rich, slightly resinous warmth adding a soft, inviting sweetness to the base. Bourbon vanilla, sourced from the lush, fertile regions of Réunion Island, is particularly known for its creamy, dark richness, with a hint of smokiness that gives it depth and sensuality, creating a final, alluring touch that lingers on the skin like a secret waiting to be discovered.
Together, these notes combine to create a fragrance that is sophisticated, complex, and subtly mysterious. Chevalier de la Nuit (2018 Reissue) feels like the embodiment of twilight—fresh and citrusy at first, but gradually unfolding into deeper, warmer, and more sensual layers as the night sets in. It’s a fragrance that beckons with its elegance and depth, capturing the essence of a secret waiting to be uncovered in the stillness of the evening.
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