Wednesday, March 25, 2015

Acclaim by Ciro c1950

Acclaim by Ciro was introduced in 1950, marking the brand’s first new fragrance release in nearly a decade. The choice of the name "Acclaim" was undoubtedly deliberate, evoking a sense of prestige, recognition, and admiration. The word itself originates from the Latin acclamare, meaning "to cry out in approval" or "to praise enthusiastically." In English, "acclaim" is associated with public applause and high regard, suggesting a fragrance meant to command attention and admiration. The name conjures images of triumph, elegance, and celebration, making it an alluring proposition for the sophisticated woman of the era.

The 1950s was a transformative period, often referred to as the beginning of the "Golden Age" following the hardships of World War II. The war had ended in 1945, and by 1950, many countries, particularly the United States, were experiencing economic growth, a baby boom, and a return to traditional values. Fashion was undergoing a dramatic shift—Christian Dior had introduced the "New Look" in 1947, characterized by nipped-in waists, full skirts, and an emphasis on femininity. Women were embracing glamour, elegance, and a renewed sense of luxury, leaving behind the utilitarian styles of the war years. Perfume, as an essential part of a woman’s toilette, reflected this change, with compositions becoming more opulent and sophisticated.

For a woman of the early 1950s, a fragrance named "Acclaim" would have embodied both personal allure and societal recognition. Women were expected to present themselves with grace and refinement, and a perfume with such a bold, aspirational name would have been an enticing addition to their beauty ritual. It would have suggested confidence, sophistication, and the promise of leaving a lasting impression.


In olfactory terms, "Acclaim" was classified as a spicy floral forest blend, placing it within the woodsy-mossy family. Fragrances of this category often featured notes of sandalwood, rosewood, cedarwood, and balsam, balanced with oakmoss, fern, and other green elements to create a natural yet refined "outdoorsy" aroma. The addition of spice and floral components likely added warmth, depth, and complexity, making it both sensual and distinguished. The interpretation of "Acclaim" in scent would suggest something commanding yet elegant, a fragrance that enveloped the wearer in an aura of mystery and sophistication.

During this period, perfumes ranged from heady, rich florals like Estée Lauder’s Youth-Dew (1953) to more refined chypres and aldehydic blends. Spicy-woody perfumes were not unheard of, but they were often positioned as statement scents—bold, distinctive, and appealing to women who wished to exude confidence. "Acclaim" fit well within the landscape of post-war perfumery, embracing the era's preference for polished, elegant compositions while also distinguishing itself with its sophisticated, nature-inspired complexity.

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? Acclaim by Ciro is classified as a spicy floral forest blend fragrance for women.  
  • Top notes: Algerian coriander, Provencal lavender, Hungarian clary sage, aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Jamaican pepper, Moroccan cardamom, Grenada nutmeg, Sicilian lemon, Italian neroli
  • Middle notes: Grasse rose, Grasse jasmine, French carnation, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Indian tuberose, Florentine orris, Bourbon geranium, Ceylon cinnamon, Zanzibar clove
  • Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, Tyrolean oakmoss, Indonesian patchouli, ambergris, Tibetan musk, Haitian vetiver, Virginian cedar, Siamese benzoin, Maltese labdanum, Venezuelan tonka bean, leather, birch tar


Woman's Home Companion, 1950:
"Ciro's exciting new Acclaim perfume (l oz). $12.50."

Pacific Drug Review, 1950:
"ACCLAIM PERFUME Parfums Ciro, Inc. New York City, N. Y. Acclaim is the first new fragrance in nine years by this manufacturer. Packaged in bottles of classic design, priced to retail at $5."

Motion Picture, 1951:
"Perk up your lagging end-of-winter ego with a new perfume. Lots of new ones have appeared —and must be worn to be appreciated. Acclaim, Ciro's first new perfume in years, is a beguiling fragrance destined to keep you in the limelight."
The New Yorker, 1952:
"Acclaim: She's in the spotlight, without seeking it— everything about her attracts applause and admiration. ... She certainly deserves Acclaim!, Guessing will get you nowhere! If it were ... All Ciro perfumes in several sizes."


Scent Profile:


Acclaim by Ciro unfolds like a luxurious journey through the world’s most exotic and prized natural ingredients, each note revealing layers of depth, texture, and elegance.

The first breath of Acclaim is an exhilarating burst of citrus and spice, bright yet complex. The Calabrian bergamot, cultivated under the Mediterranean sun of southern Italy, lends a crisp, slightly floral citrus nuance, less sharp than lemon but more refined, with a delicate sweetness that lingers. Sicilian lemon, sharper and zestier, adds a luminous sparkle, its bright acidity cutting through the initial warmth of spices. Italian neroli, distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, contributes a radiant, honeyed freshness, lending both sophistication and a whisper of floral softness.

Spices quickly make their presence known, weaving warmth and exotic intrigue into the top notes. Algerian coriander, with its green citrus-tinged spice, adds a subtly aromatic touch, blending effortlessly with the herbal lift of Provencal lavender, which is more camphoraceous and crisp than its English counterpart. Hungarian clary sage enhances this aromatic quality with its musky, slightly leathery undertones, foreshadowing the sensuality of the base notes to come. Then, the heat begins to rise—Jamaican pepper, with its fiery, slightly smoky warmth, prickles against the cool aldehydic shimmer. Moroccan cardamom, known for its delicate balance of citrusy brightness and warm resinous depth, fuses seamlessly with the nutty, buttery spice of Grenada nutmeg, whose tropical climate yields a richer, more aromatic essence than nutmeg from other regions. The aldehydes lend a soapy, effervescent lift, softening the sharper spices and imbuing the fragrance with a refined, polished elegance.

As the fragrance develops, the floral heart blossoms with exquisite depth and richness, echoing the most opulent gardens of the world. The unmistakable presence of Grasse rose unfolds first—a velvety, honeyed bloom cultivated in the perfume capital of France, where generations of growers have perfected the art of coaxing the fullest expression of scent from each delicate petal. Grasse jasmine, similarly esteemed, adds a narcotic depth, warm and sensual, with an almost animalic undertone that lingers on the skin.

Intertwined with these florals is the fiery spice of French carnation, whose clove-like richness is heightened by the deep warmth of Zanzibar clove—more potent and resinous than other varieties, its oil dripping with rich, balsamic intensity. Ceylon cinnamon, harvested from the bark of trees in Sri Lanka, exudes an intoxicating warmth, less sharp than cassia cinnamon, with an almost honeyed sweetness that lingers on the petals of the floral bouquet. Bourbon geranium, grown in the Indian Ocean region of Réunion, adds a green, rosy brightness, tempering the weight of the heavier spices and floral notes.

More tropical florals emerge, draping the composition in languid sensuality. Nossi-Be ylang ylang, sourced from Madagascar’s tiny island of Nosy Be, is creamier and fruitier than its counterparts, exuding a languorous, almost banana-like richness. Indian tuberose, lush and narcotic, contributes a waxy, heady opulence, deepening the fragrance’s seductive allure. Meanwhile, Florentine orris, one of the most precious ingredients in perfumery, lends a soft, powdery elegance—its aroma reminiscent of violet and suede, adding a vintage sophistication to the heart.

As the final act unfolds, the fragrance sinks into a luxurious base that feels at once grounded and untamed, comforting yet provocative. Mysore sandalwood, the finest and most revered variety, imparts a rich, creamy woodiness, its golden warmth enhanced by the deep earthiness of Indonesian patchouli, renowned for its dark, slightly camphoraceous character. Tyrolean oakmoss, harvested from the alpine forests of Austria, adds a damp, mossy depth, evoking the cool stillness of a forest floor.

A sensual, animalic warmth emerges with the inclusion of Tibetan musk, rare and potent, adding a deep, slightly leathery richness. Ambergris, with its soft, salty-sweet marine facet, lends a luminous, skin-like warmth, enhancing the fragrance’s natural allure. The smoky elegance of Virginian cedar, crisp and slightly peppery, provides structure, while Haitian vetiver, renowned for its smooth, green-earthy aroma, ties the composition to the raw, untamed elements of nature.

Further layers of resinous warmth unfold: Siamese benzoin, with its caramel-like sweetness, blends with Maltese labdanum, a rich, leathery resin with hints of honey and smoke. Venezuelan tonka bean adds a final touch of warmth, its almond-vanilla facets wrapping the entire composition in a velvety embrace. The dry-down is further enriched by the dark, smoky depth of birch tar, evoking the scent of fine leather—sensual, sophisticated, and evocative of classic elegance.

Acclaim is a fragrance of contrasts—bright yet deep, floral yet spiced, elegant yet untamed. Each note plays its part in creating an olfactory experience that is both timeless and commanding. It is the scent of a woman who embodies grace and power, who moves with confidence yet leaves a whisper of mystery in her wake. The interplay of rich, natural materials from every corner of the world results in a composition that feels both classically structured and deeply sensual, a true testament to mid-century perfumery’s most exquisite craftsmanship.


Fate of the Fragrance:


Launched in 1950, Acclaim by Ciro was a testament to the brand’s dedication to luxurious, finely crafted fragrances. As the first new release from Ciro in nearly a decade, Acclaim was introduced during a time of renewed optimism and refinement, perfectly aligning with the elegance and sophistication of the post-war era. Though its exact discontinuation date remains unknown, records indicate that it was still available for purchase in 1960, suggesting a steady presence in the market for at least a decade. Like many Ciro fragrances, Acclaim likely developed a devoted following, appreciated for its intricate blend of spiced florals and woodsy-mossy accords. However, as the perfume industry evolved and consumer preferences shifted in the 1960s, it may have gradually faded from production, becoming a cherished yet elusive relic of its time. Today, its rarity and historical significance make it a sought-after collector’s item, a reminder of the artistry and prestige that defined mid-century perfumery.

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