Doux Jasmin by Ciro c1923

In 1923, Doux Jasmin was introduced as part of Ciro’s early collection, a testament to the timeless elegance of jasmine. The name itself, pronounced doo zhahs-MAH in French, translates to “Sweet Jasmine”, immediately conjuring images of soft, velvety white petals glistening with dew in the moonlight. The word doux (sweet) suggests a fragrance that is tender, smooth, and comforting—an olfactory whisper of delicacy and romance. Jasmine, revered for its intoxicating floral depth, had long been a staple in perfumery, symbolizing sensuality, opulence, and femininity. By naming the perfume Doux Jasmin, Ciro evoked an image of pure, radiant beauty, much like the jasmine flower itself—delicate yet powerful, soft yet intoxicating.

The early 1920s, often referred to as the Roaring Twenties, marked a period of radical transformation. The world was emerging from the shadows of World War I, and a newfound sense of liberation and modernity was taking hold. Women, having gained the right to vote in the U.S. in 1920, were redefining their roles in society. The era embraced flapper culture, with women cutting their hair into chic bobbed styles, shedding restrictive corsets for loose, beaded dresses, and reveling in jazz-filled nightlife. The Art Deco movement flourished, influencing design, fashion, and fragrance bottles alike, with its bold geometric patterns and a fascination with luxury.

Within this landscape, Doux Jasmin would have appealed to both traditionalists and modern women alike. For some, it was a reminder of classic Victorian and Edwardian-era floral perfumes, steeped in the refinement of French perfumery traditions. For others, it was a way to embrace sensuality in a sophisticated, wearable way—a single floral soliflore that was simple yet undeniably elegant. At a time when perfumes were shifting from heavier animalic and powdery compositions toward fresher, lighter florals, Doux Jasmin aligned with the trend yet maintained a sense of timeless romance.

Jasmine itself has a dual nature in scent: it can be creamy, luminous, and sweet, yet at the same time, it possesses an underlying indolic intensity, often described as musky or even slightly animalic. This makes it both innocent and seductive, a balance that would have suited the confident yet graceful women of the 1920s. Unlike the heady, ambery perfumes of previous decades, Doux Jasmin was noted for its strong opening but relatively quick fade, suggesting it may have relied on natural jasmine absolutes and tinctures, which, while richly fragrant, lacked the longevity of heavier synthetic compositions.

By the late 19th century and early 20th century, scientific advances in perfumery had introduced a range of new jasmine-related compounds—benzyl acetate, linalool, linalyl acetate, methyl anthranilate, and phenyl ethyl alcohol—allowing perfumers to enhance the radiance and longevity of jasmine while softening its more animalic tendencies. Doux Jasmin likely embraced these newer innovations, offering a modernized interpretation of jasmine that was lighter, sweeter, and more wearable than the deeply narcotic floral blends of earlier eras.

Although jasmine had long been a beloved ingredient, Ciro’s take on the note was fresh, youthful, and refined, aligning with the era’s embrace of effortless luxury and understated glamour. The fragrance’s ephemeral nature, like a fleeting caress, mirrored the transient beauty of a perfect evening, a whispered secret, or a lover’s parting glance—a quality that made it both captivating and profoundly poetic.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Doux Jasmin by Ciro is classified as a very sweet floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehyde C10, Moroccan cassie, Italian neroli, benzyl acetate, linalol, linalyl acetate, methyl anthranilate, "floralnol",  geranyl acetate, phenyl ethyl alcohol 
• Middle notes: "indol", Egyptian jasmine absolute, Tunisian orange blossom, Florentine orris, farnesol, methyl nonylacetaldehyde, Grasse jasmine absolute
• Base notes: octylic acetate, decylic acetate, Abyssinian civet, Indian musk ambrette, ambergris, Colombian tolu balsam, Siamese benzoin, Tibetan musk, styrolyl alcohol, Peru balsam, Himalayan costus, Canadian castoreum

Hearst's, 1929:

"For well she knows that Memory is woven about the elusive things of life ... a strain of music — an enticing perfume. Such a perfume is Ciro's DOUX JASMIN . . . fresh, enduring— ardent as young love — scintillant as the bursting blossoms of Spring. With it, one may weld the silver chain that binds the flying feet of memory. With it, one may find a fragrant way to say Remember Me. ... Doux Jasmin Face Powder in Apritan shade, lends the true Continental sun-bronzed hue."

 

Scent Profile:

The first breath of Doux Jasmin is a dazzling cascade of light, a luminous burst of aldehyde C10, which imparts a crisp, waxy radiance—like the clean, starched linen of an elegant evening gown. This effervescence is softened by the honeyed, powdery warmth of Moroccan cassie, a floral note with hints of violet and mimosa, evoking the golden blooms swaying in the dry, sunlit air of North Africa. Italian neroli, distilled from the delicate white blossoms of the bitter orange tree, lends a shimmering citrus brightness—both fresh and slightly green, with a touch of waxy sweetness.

This radiant floral opening is seamlessly woven with benzyl acetate, a compound naturally present in jasmine, offering a fruity-floral depth reminiscent of ripe bananas and sweet, tropical nectar. Linalool and linalyl acetate, extracted from lavender and citrus, introduce a whisper of soft herbal freshness, tempering the sweetness with a delicate, airy quality. The presence of methyl anthranilate adds an almost grape-like, musky richness, further enhancing the perfume’s juicy, narcotic floral heart. Floralnol, a synthetic molecule designed to mimic the crisp, dewy facets of lily of the valley, contributes to the fragrance’s ethereal quality, while geranyl acetate infuses the composition with a rosy, green brightness. At the core of the top notes is phenyl ethyl alcohol, which reinforces the perfume’s distinctly floral character—smooth, rosy, and slightly honeyed, with a soft, velvety warmth.

As the top notes begin to settle, the true heart of Doux Jasmin emerges—a lush, intoxicating blend of white florals at their most opulent. Indol, a natural component found in jasmine, brings forth a sultry, almost animalic depth, creating the illusion of warm skin touched by floral nectar. At the forefront is Egyptian jasmine absolute, rich and full-bodied, with a deep, slightly fruity sweetness, entwined with the unparalleled softness of Grasse jasmine absolute, cultivated in the famed fields of southern France, known for its creamy, sun-warmed intensity. 

The Tunisian orange blossom adds a luminous, honeyed nuance, weaving its slightly bitter, green facets into the heady floral bouquet. Florentine orris, among the most precious ingredients in perfumery, imparts an elegant, powdery softness—its violet-like richness subtly grounding the heady, narcotic florals. Enhancing the floral heart is farnesol, a naturally occurring molecule in jasmine and rose, which extends the floralcy with its green, slightly woody undertones, while methyl nonylacetaldehyde adds a delicate touch of fresh, sun-kissed citrus peels.

The dry-down of Doux Jasmin is a sumptuous embrace, revealing a tapestry of warm, resinous, and animalic notes that create a lasting, intimate trail. Octylic acetate and decylic acetate, naturally found in jasmine, continue to radiate their waxy, floral sweetness, while the animalic depth of Abyssinian civet adds an unmistakable sensuality—a warm, musky undertone reminiscent of sun-warmed skin. Indian musk ambrette, extracted from plant seeds, offers a soft, powdery muskiness, blending seamlessly with the ethereal, oceanic touch of ambergris, which adds depth, smoothness, and a lingering salty-sweet warmth.

The resinous base is further enriched by Colombian tolu balsam, a deep, ambery note with hints of cinnamon and vanilla, and Siamese benzoin, which brings a creamy, resinous sweetness with balsamic undertones. Tibetan musk, known for its soft, earthy warmth, intertwines with the smoky, leathery nuances of Canadian castoreum, adding a touch of animalic allure. The final notes of Himalayan costus, with its woody, root-like depth, and Peru balsam, a rich, vanilla-infused resin, complete the fragrance with a lasting, velvety embrace.

Ultimately, Doux Jasmin is an olfactory sonnet to jasmine, capturing the flower’s multifaceted nature—its delicate luminosity, its narcotic depth, and its fleeting yet unforgettable presence. It is a fragrance that feels like a warm whisper on the skin, an ephemeral bloom that lingers in the air like the memory of a stolen kiss.

Bottles:

Doux Jasmin was available in the following:

• Dusting Powder
• Eau de Ciro
• Eau de Toilette 
• Parfum

Red enameled glass stopper on cylindrical bottle, oblong box of canary yellow with black dotted edge, black and gold label. Each box handsomely wrapped in cellophane paper with gold cord.

Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1937:

"Ciro of Paris presents the flower pot shaped Poudre de Toilette in three floral odors: Gardenia Sauvage, Doux Jasmin, and Camelia du Maroc."

Harper's Bazaar, 1958:

"Jasmine captured at its freshest — that's Ciro's "Doux Jasmin" Esscent. 2 oz., $2.50."

Esquire, 1959:

"Ciro Spray Mist enfolds her. Each Ciro Mist is an exact fragrance duplicate of one of the great Ciro perfumes, beloved by fashionable women the world over. . . Danger, Surrender, Reflexions, New Horizons, Ricochet, Doux Jasmin."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1958.