Launched in 1923, Maskée by Ciro embodied the electrifying energy of Carnival, a time of masked revelry, music, and unrestrained joy. The name Maskée is derived from the French word "masqué" (pronounced mah-SKAY), meaning "masked"—a fitting title for a perfume inspired by the world of masquerades, revelry, and hidden identities. The name itself conjures images of elaborate Venetian masks, swirling silk gowns, and candlelit ballrooms, where intrigue and passion unfold behind veiled disguises. Maskée was designed to transport its wearer into a world of fantasy, where the boundaries of reality and illusion blurred, much like the intoxicating effect of a Carnival night.
Ciro’s choice to infuse Maskée with the spirit of Carnival was a bold and imaginative move. Carnival is renowned for its vibrant excess, dazzling costumes, and intoxicating atmosphere, making it the perfect inspiration for a perfume meant to exude "a gay, reckless odeur," as contemporary advertisements described it. This was an era when women were stepping into new freedoms—flappers were dancing in jazz clubs, hemlines were rising, and the old constraints of Edwardian propriety were being cast aside. Maskée would have appealed to this modern, adventurous woman—one who was not afraid to embrace excitement, glamour, and even a hint of mischief.
The early 1920s was a time of rapid cultural transformation. The world was recovering from the Great War, and society was entering the dazzling Roaring Twenties, also known as the Jazz Age. The rise of Art Deco, with its bold geometric designs and luxurious materials, paralleled a newfound appreciation for elegance with a touch of daring. Women were asserting their independence—earning the right to vote, cutting their hair into sleek bobs, and adopting a more liberated approach to fashion and beauty. In this context, a perfume like Maskée, inspired by the unrestrained festivities of Carnival, would have been the perfect olfactory accessory to a woman’s fringe-trimmed dress, beaded handbag, and jeweled headband.
As a floral fragrance, Maskée would have likely been an explosion of lush, jubilant blooms, reflecting the colorful vibrancy of Carnival. One can imagine notes of sweet orange blossom and effervescent jasmine, mingling with perhaps the heady richness of tuberose and ylang-ylang, all draped in an airy yet intoxicating veil of musk and soft woods. The scent would have captured the essence of laughter, swirling silk gowns, and masked intrigue under a moonlit sky.
At the time of its launch, floral perfumes were immensely popular, but Maskée stood out due to its playful, uninhibited theme. Many fragrances of the era aimed for classical elegance, while Maskée embraced a sense of fantasy and exuberance, aligning with the bolder, more carefree spirit of the 1920s. Its association with masquerades, Carnival, and a touch of the forbidden gave it a unique identity that set it apart from more traditional floral compositions.
Maskée was one of the first perfumes issued by Ciro, a brand that had just been established in 1921 in New York. At its inception, Ciro obtained all its fragrances from Les Parfums de Gabilla in Paris, a house founded by the visionary Henriette Gabilla. With Maskée, Ciro introduced American audiences to the artistry of French perfumery, blending Parisian sophistication with the thrill of modern, carefree luxury.
Though Maskée faded into obscurity over time, its spirit remains a testament to an era when perfume was not merely a cosmetic choice but a declaration of personality, mood, and movement. It was a scent for women who embraced life with reckless abandon, who reveled in the magic of transformation, and who, if only for a night, wished to slip behind a mask and become someone entirely new.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Maskée by Ciro is classified as a floral fragrance for women. The newspaper ads described it as "perfume of the Carnival, a gay, reckless odeur".
- Top notes: neroli, bergamot, Provencal honey, aldehydes, French heliotrope, Tunisian orange blossom
- Middle notes: Indian tuberose, Bulgarian damascena rose, Florentine iris, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Grasse jasmine, French
- Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, Venezuelan tonka bean, Mexican vanilla, Atlas cedar, Tonkin musk, ambergris
Scent Profile:
The opening of Maskée is a dazzling burst of neroli and bergamot, their citrus brilliance reminiscent of the first exhilarating moments of a masquerade ball, where the air is thick with anticipation. The neroli, distilled from the delicate blossoms of the bitter orange tree, carries an effervescent, honeyed brightness, both crisp and green. The Calabrian bergamot, grown in the sun-drenched groves of southern Italy, adds a sparkling zest, its unique balance of citrus sharpness and floral warmth lending an uplifting energy to the fragrance’s first impression.
Then, a golden sweetness begins to unfurl—the rich, sun-warmed glow of Provencal honey. Harvested from the lavender fields and wildflower meadows of Provence, this honey has a floral complexity, a luscious depth that drapes the citrus notes in a veil of gilded warmth. The aldehydes, like a soft-focus haze, add a shimmering effect, an airy effervescence that enhances the composition's lightness, much like the flickering glow of candlelight on silk masks.
The floral heart of Maskée is where the fragrance truly comes alive, revealing its opulent, intoxicating core. Tunisian orange blossom emerges with its rich, slightly narcotic sweetness, a floral nectar tinged with a touch of green freshness. This leads into the heady embrace of Indian tuberose, a night-blooming flower famed for its sultry, creamy intensity. Its waxy white petals exude a carnal, almost dizzying richness, reminiscent of whispered secrets and stolen glances behind velvet masks.
Against this sensual backdrop, the deep, velvety aroma of Bulgarian damascena rose unfolds—its petals lush, dewy, and slightly spiced, evoking the grandeur of baroque ballrooms. Unlike lighter, powdery roses, the Bulgarian variety is famed for its full-bodied, honeyed warmth, an echo of centuries-old perfumery traditions. The Grasse jasmine, harvested in the perfume capital of the world, introduces a sun-drenched radiance, its indolic sweetness lending a hypnotic, almost animalic undertone. Meanwhile, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, from the remote island off Madagascar, adds a creamy, banana-like floralcy, with a touch of spice that heightens the fragrance’s exotic allure.
Soft, powdery Florentine iris emerges as the heart begins to settle, its buttery, suede-like texture wrapping the florals in an air of quiet elegance. The iris butter, extracted from the rhizomes of the plant after years of aging, has an earthy, violet-like smoothness—reminiscent of antique face powders, lending a sense of vintage glamour to the composition.
As the masquerade of notes begins its final waltz, the base of Maskée unveils its rich, sensual depth. Mysore sandalwood, revered for its unparalleled creamy warmth, unfolds with its meditative, almost sacred woodiness, its resinous smoothness grounding the airy florals above. The Venezuelan tonka bean adds a touch of almond-like sweetness, its coumarin-rich scent evoking a hint of dried hay and vanilla-laced tobacco.
Then comes the rich, decadent embrace of Mexican vanilla, deep and balsamic, with a dark, boozy complexity that lingers on the skin like the last embers of a candle-lit soirée. Atlas cedar, with its dry, slightly smoky woodiness, adds an air of mystery, a whispered promise of something hidden beneath the masks. Tonkin musk, once one of the most prized animalic notes in perfumery, imparts a sensual warmth, a soft, almost velvety aura that clings to the skin like the memory of an unforgettable dance.
Finally, a whisper of ambergris drifts through the drydown, its oceanic, slightly salty warmth like a breath of cool night air after an evening of reckless abandon. A rare and legendary ingredient, it lends the fragrance an almost ethereal, skin-like radiance, ensuring that Maskée lingers—like the echo of distant laughter, the rustle of silk, and the shimmer of a mask slipping from its wearer’s face.
More than just a perfume, Maskée is an experience—an invitation to lose oneself in the mystery, the revelry, and the fleeting beauty of a night at Carnival.
Bottles:
Parfum Maskée was housed in one of the most charming and distinctive perfume bottles of its era—a clear glass flacon shaped like a clown, a fitting tribute to the playful, enigmatic spirit of Carnival. The figure was not merely a bottle but an artistic representation of the theatrical masked revelers that inspired the fragrance itself. The stopper, made of milk glass, was designed as a ball-shaped head adorned with a pointed hat, enameled in jet black, adding an element of contrast and striking detail. This small yet impactful touch emphasized the harlequin theme, drawing the eye to the clown’s whimsical yet mysterious presence.
Further enhancing the bottle’s character, carefully designed paper labels acted as the clown’s costume embellishments, forming a ruff collar around the neck and three neatly placed buttons running down the front of its "suit." These details lent an element of storytelling to the design, transforming the bottle into a tiny costumed performer, frozen in time. The fragrance was available in two sizes, standing at either 5 inches or 8 inches tall, making it a collectible piece of functional art.
The bottle was housed in an equally theatrical presentation—a black satin box, elegantly adorned with a stenciled white clown. This contrast of dark and light mirrored the dramatic flair of traditional Carnival masquerades, where revelers donned masks of both mischief and mystery. The luxurious satin lining evoked the softness of a stage curtain, concealing the fragrant secret within until the moment of unveiling. The overall presentation was not merely a means of packaging but an extension of the perfume’s narrative—a true reflection of Maskée’s lively yet enigmatic character.
In 1924, the pricing of Maskée reflected its status as a high-quality perfume. A 2-ounce bottle of parfum retailed for $5, while the 1-ounce bottle was priced at $2.50. Additionally, an 8-ounce Eau de Toilette was available for $5. At the time, these prices positioned Maskée as an accessible yet refined luxury, enticing women who sought a fragrance that embodied festivity and elegance. When adjusted for inflation, these figures translate to approximately $91.22 for the 2-ounce parfum, $45.61 for the 1-ounce parfum, and $91.22 for the 8-ounce Eau de Toilette in 2024’s money. This modern equivalent underscores the perfume’s prestige—affordable enough for women to indulge in, yet still a sophisticated choice that set it apart from more commonplace fragrances.
The bottle and its presentation encapsulated the spirit of Maskée—a scent meant for those who embraced life’s masquerade with a playful heart and a touch of mystery. Its packaging was not just an aesthetic choice but a declaration of the perfume’s essence, an olfactory and visual celebration of Carnival’s enchanting world.
Hearst's, 1928;
"All the Ciro Perfumes — including Doux Jasmin, Bouquet Antique, and Parfum Maskee — are made, packaged, and sealed in France."
Fate of the Fragrance:
Launched in 1923, Maskée by Ciro captured the exuberance and intrigue of Carnival, offering a fragrance that embodied playful mystery and festive revelry. While the precise date of its discontinuation remains unknown, Maskee lingered in the market far longer than many of its contemporaries, continuing to be sold as late as 1942. This extended presence in the market speaks to its enduring appeal, with the whimsical design of the clown-shaped bottle and the bold, spirited scent maintaining their charm during a time of shifting tastes. Despite being discontinued officially, the fragrance's continued availability in stores until the early 1940s suggests that Maskée had found a devoted following, becoming a beloved scent for those who appreciated its unique blend of floral and carnival-inspired notes.
2018 Reformulation & Relaunch:
In 2018, Parfums Ciro was resurrected, reviving the iconic fragrance Maskée with a modern twist. Recreated by perfumer Alexander Streeck, this revival is a tribute to the original's spirit, capturing the essence of Carnival in a contemporary context. The perfume's description evokes a sense of mystery and allure, referencing "the play of the masks," a celebration of life and color, and the excitement of hidden identities. The scent is designed to reflect this complex dance of veiled faces and unfulfilled curiosity, turning the ordinary act of disguise into something sensual and enchanting.
The fragrance opens with a rich, exotic sweetness, as the nectar of ylang blossoms combines with the lush, velvety scarlet of Damask roses. These floral notes are then beautifully tempered by the powdery majesty of iris, adding a layer of elegance and intrigue. A creamy jasmine joins the mix, enhancing the seductive nature of the fragrance with its alluring richness. Heliotrope provides a delicate, almost confectionery note, conjuring the sweetness of marzipan, which is further enhanced by the deep, comforting warmth of bourbon vanilla. Together with the smooth, slightly nutty tonka bean, these elements create a sense of indulgence and depth. The base of the fragrance is soft and grounding, with clean cedar and musk that provide a sensuous, subtle finish. The final touch is the whisper of honey, which entangles the fragrance in a soft, sweet embrace, echoing the idea of a coquettish allure.
In this modern interpretation, Maskée retains its original themes of mystery and sensuality but with a more polished, refined execution, inviting wearers to experience the same joyous exuberance and emotional intrigue that made the original perfume so captivating.
From the website:
"The play of the masks ... a glittering celebration, joie de vivre and exuberance characterize the atmosphere, which is characterized by the colourfulness and eccentricity of the costumes. The roving gaze captures faces, faces alien and familiar alike, thanks to the magic of their disguise. He indulges in the splendor of the hidden, the pleasure finds in the dance around the question of identities, leaving unfulfilled curiosity behind ...
MASKÉE is a seductress whose sensuality derives from her versatility: Exotic nectar sweetness of ylang blossoms meets precious, scarlet-velvety damask roses, powdery-majestic irises on beguiling jasmine of appealing creaminess. Heliotrope conjures echoes of marzipan, while delicious bourbon vanilla in combination with tonka bean provides vanilla-sweet moments. The base is made of soft musk and clean cedar, gently carrying the fragrance, which sees itself coquettishly ensnared by honey."
Fragrance Composition:
- Top notes: ylang-ylang, Bulgarian Damascus rose, iris
- Middle notes: jasmine, heliotrope, tonka bean
- Base notes: honey, Bourbon vanilla, cedarwood, white musk
Scent Profile:
As the 2018 version of Maskee unfolds on the skin, the opening notes immediately captivate with an exquisite interplay of florals. First, the exotic allure of ylang-ylang sweeps in, its rich, sweet nectar enveloping the senses. The ylang-ylang in this fragrance, sourced from tropical regions like Madagascar and Comoros, carries a deep, intoxicating sweetness that feels both lush and opulent. It evokes the sultry warmth of distant, sun-soaked shores, a vivid reminder of its origins. Alongside it, the Bulgarian Damascus rose introduces a touch of elegance, its deep, velvety petals offering a soft, rosy sweetness that feels luxurious and timeless. Known for its complexity, the Bulgarian rose, grown in the renowned rose valleys of Bulgaria, is prized for its delicate balance of both sweet and slightly spicy, green facets, which adds a multi-dimensional depth to the fragrance. A whisper of iris follows, its powdery, elegant presence grounding the floral notes with an almost ethereal sophistication. The iris, particularly from the famed fields of Florence, brings a soft, slightly woody, and floral nuance that adds an airy complexity and a sense of refined beauty to the fragrance’s opening.
As the fragrance evolves, the heart notes deepen the allure with the creamy, seductive jasmine. This jasmine, often harvested in the lush fields of Grasse, France, is known for its richness and opulence. Its creamy, almost buttery texture melds seamlessly with the powdery sweetness of heliotrope, which conjures the soft, sweet scent of marzipan—a nostalgic, delicate sweetness that adds a layer of charm and playfulness. The heliotrope’s warm, almost almond-like facets give the perfume a comforting embrace, enhancing the luxurious floral blend.
The fragrance then begins to warm with the round, sweet warmth of tonka bean, a cherished ingredient from Venezuela. Its rich, slightly spicy-sweet aroma is reminiscent of vanilla and almonds, and it provides an enveloping sweetness that lingers delicately, grounding the floral notes. The tonka bean brings a comforting sensuality to the heart of Maskee, harmonizing the earlier floral intensity with a soft, sweet richness that feels like a warm, indulgent embrace.
In the base, Maskee reveals a sultry, deep sensuality, beginning with the sweetness of honey. The honey, with its golden warmth, adds a layer of indulgence, evoking the sweetness of a summer day, yet with a subtle richness that feels luxurious. Complementing the honey is Bourbon vanilla, sourced from the tropical islands of Madagascar, which infuses the fragrance with a deep, creamy sweetness. The Bourbon vanilla is prized for its intense, complex scent profile, with rich, warm, and almost smoky nuances that elevate the fragrance to new levels of sophistication. The base is completed with smooth cedarwood, sourced from the Atlas Mountains in Morocco, adding an earthy, slightly dry woodiness that serves as a grounding contrast to the sweetness above. Finally, a soft, almost translucent layer of white musk envelops the composition, creating a clean, airy finish that leaves behind a subtle, intimate trail.
Together, the ingredients of Maskee create a fragrance that feels both opulent and approachable, sensual and sophisticated. It is a perfume that speaks to both the joyful exuberance of a celebration and the quiet allure of hidden identities, wrapped in the warmth of honey and vanilla, the elegance of roses and jasmine, and the sweet, exotic touch of ylang-ylang and heliotrope.
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