Thursday, April 21, 2022

Violette d'Alger by Ciro c1936

The name Violette d'Alger is a poetic and evocative choice, one that immediately conjures images of exotic beauty and colonial romance. In French, Violette d'Alger translates to "Violet of Algiers" (Vee-oh-LET dal-ZHAY), a name that suggests both the delicate sweetness of violets and the grandeur of a distant, sun-drenched land. Algeria was a French colony at the time, and its capital, Algiers, was often romanticized in literature and art as a place of intrigue, luxury, and intoxicating scents carried on warm Mediterranean breezes. By choosing this name, Ciro was not only capitalizing on the long-standing popularity of violet perfumes but also infusing the fragrance with an air of mystery and sophisticated escapism.

Why violets from Algeria? While violets were cultivated across Europe, the idea of Algerian violets likely played into the era’s fascination with the exotic. French colonial territories, particularly in North Africa, were often associated with rich botanical landscapes and prized ingredients for perfumery. The association with Algiers may have been more about imagery than sourcing, evoking the lush gardens of the city—perhaps filled with violet-like heliotrope, jasmine, and other aromatic blooms mingling in the balmy air. The name also reflects a sense of longing, as violets were often symbolic of nostalgia, love, and wistfulness.


The year 1936 was a pivotal time in history. The world was in the midst of the interwar period, defined by both artistic flourishing and political unease. In France, the Popular Front government had just been elected, bringing social reforms, while in fashion, the sleek, feminine silhouettes of the Art Deco era were giving way to a more romantic, flowing style. The influence of Hollywood was undeniable, with screen sirens like Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo embodying an ideal of mystery and sophistication that a fragrance like Violette d'Alger would have complemented perfectly. Perfume, much like fashion, was an escape—an indulgence in beauty amid the uncertainties of the time.

For the women of 1936, Violette d'Alger would have represented a refined yet deeply sentimental fragrance. Violet perfumes had been beloved since the 19th century, often associated with Victorian elegance and powdery softness. However, by the 1930s, violet perfumes had evolved, enriched with deeper, more sensual facets. The description of Violette d'Alger as "sophisticated, rich in zest, and the odor of spring violets, wistful and dewy" suggests a composition that balanced freshness with warmth. The inclusion of zest hints at a sparkling citrus or aldehydic lift, counteracting the potential heaviness of the floral notes.

In the context of its time, Violette d'Alger was both classic and contemporary. While violet remained a staple in perfumery, Ciro’s approach likely embraced the advancements in fragrance chemistry that allowed for more complex, long-lasting compositions. By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, perfumers had access to synthetic materials such as methyl ionone and heliotropin, which could enhance and extend the delicate scent of natural violet. The addition of animalic notes, woods, and vanillic nuances would have lent depth, making Violette d'Alger more than just a simple floral—it was a violet with intrigue, an air of distant lands, and a timeless elegance suited to the modern woman of the 1930s.

Wearing Violette d'Alger would have been akin to stepping into a film noir scene—impeccably dressed, enigmatic, and draped in the kind of perfume that left an unforgettable trace in the air. It was wistful yet confident, delicate yet rich, a scent that embodied both the past and the present in a single breath.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. It was described as "Sophisticated, rich in zest, and the odor of spring violets, wistful and dewy."
  • Top notes: Hungarian clary sage concrete, Provencal verbena, methyl heptin carbonate, Lebanese cassie, Jordanian almond, Bourbon geranium, Algerian violet, Calabrian bergamot, methyl ionone, amyl heptine carbonate 
  • Middle notes: "Floranol", farnesol, Egyptian jasmine, Florentine orris root, Grasse rose, heliotropin, Indian tuberose,"florodora", Parma violet
  • Base notes: yara yara, "formidol", benzyl acetate, vanillin, Colombian tolu balsam, Persian musk, ambrette, santalol, Honduran storax 



The Winnipeg Tribune, 1938:
"CIRO'S FRENCH EAU DE COLOGNE. Including Doux Jasmin, Gardenia Sauvage, Reflections, Surrender, Camellia de Maroc, Violette D'Alger. Regular $1.50"

Paris Shopping Directory, 1945;
"Les Parfums de CIRO 4, PLACE VENDOME — TEL. OPERA 90-99 Parfums : Danger, Surrender, Réflexions, Chevalier de la Nuit, Doux Jasmin, Gardénia Sauvage, Rouge Po-Go, Caméllia du Maroc, Violette d'Alger."


Scent Profile:

 

The first breath of Violette d'Alger is an intricate weave of freshness, herbal depth, and radiant florals. Hungarian clary sage concrete, with its rich, slightly leathery green profile, opens the fragrance with an earthy clarity, its warmth tempered by the crisp, lemony brilliance of Provencal verbena. This verbena, cultivated in the sun-drenched fields of Provence, possesses a luminous vibrancy, its citrus facets sharper and more refined than those grown elsewhere. Alongside it, Calabrian bergamot, famed for its sparkling and slightly floral citrus complexity, lends a refined effervescence, cutting through the herbal tones with a sunlit brightness.

Yet, this opening is far from simple. The presence of methyl heptin carbonate and amyl heptine carbonate adds a futuristic crispness—a metallic, ozonic freshness that amplifies the dewy, green facets of the violet. Lebanese cassie, drawn from acacia trees thriving in the arid climate, introduces a whisper of spiced mimosa, its honeyed, slightly leathery depth foreshadowing the richness to come. The almond note from Jordan, creamy and faintly bittersweet, softens the sharper edges, blending seamlessly with Bourbon geranium’s rosy, minty brightness. Then, the violet—Algerian violet—takes its place, soft yet commanding. This is no ordinary violet; it is infused with the arid heat and mineral-laced air of North Africa, giving it a subtler, more grounded character than the cool violets of Parma. Methyl ionone enhances its presence, extending its powdery aura with a delicately woody, almost suede-like smoothness.

As the scent deepens, a floral opulence emerges, unfolding like a garden bathed in golden afternoon light. Egyptian jasmine, intensely narcotic and sun-warmed, unfurls its intoxicating sweetness, merging with the unparalleled richness of Grasse rose, its petals drenched in honeyed, slightly spicy facets. Florentine orris root, one of perfumery’s rarest and most prized materials, reveals its elegant, buttery warmth, its violet-like powderiness reinforcing the fragrance’s core theme. Parma violet steps forward, delicate and wistful, a more aqueous, dewy interpretation compared to the Algerian variety’s sun-kissed, slightly arid feel.

Heliotropin introduces a soft, almond-like sweetness, wrapping around the florals like a warm embrace, while Indian tuberose, lush and creamy, brings a sensual, almost carnal dimension to the bouquet. "Floranol" and "Florodora" likely enhance the radiance, adding a modern clarity to the floral heart, their shimmering aldehydic and musky nuances diffusing through the composition like light filtering through silk. Farnesol, a natural floral compound, contributes a green, slightly citrusy sweetness, seamlessly connecting the fragrance’s herbal top to its floral heart.

As Violette d'Alger settles on the skin, the base reveals a velvety depth, a fusion of exotic woods, resins, and musks. Persian musk, delicate and ethereal, lends an intimate warmth, while ambrette, a botanical musk extracted from hibiscus seeds, adds a subtle animalic undertone, its faint fruitiness whispering against the floral powder. Honduran storax and Colombian tolu balsam create a resinous richness, their warm, balsamic sweetness layered with hints of cinnamon and vanilla. Vanillin further softens the edges, its creamy embrace amplifying the comfort of the dry down.

Santalol, the defining compound of sandalwood, brings a creamy, milky woodiness that lingers on the skin like sun-warmed ivory. Yara yara and "Formidol," likely synthetic bases enhancing the fragrance’s complexity, contribute a soft, almost mineral-like diffusion, blurring the lines between powder, floral, and wood. Benzyl acetate, naturally found in jasmine, adds a final shimmer of fruity, floral brightness, ensuring that Violette d'Alger never loses its luminous character, even as it fades into a nostalgic, wistful whisper of violet, woods, and musk.

The scent is a journey—at once sophisticated and tender, exotic and familiar. It captures the soft melancholy of violets, the shimmering heat of Algiers, and the grandeur of an era enamored with romance and mystery. A fragrance that lingers like a memory, Violette d'Alger is a scent of elegance, longing, and undeniable presence.


Bottles:







Fate of the Fragrance:


Violette d'Alger was introduced in 1936, a time when the world was captivated by exoticism, colonial influences, and the romance of far-off lands. The fragrance embodied a vision of elegance and mystery, drawing inspiration from the violets of Algeria, a French colony at the time, where the warm Mediterranean climate lent a distinct richness to floral cultivation. With its sophisticated and wistful character, Violette d'Alger offered a refined interpretation of the violet note, blending it with a lush floral heart and sensual base. Though the exact date of its discontinuation remains unknown, records indicate that it was still available in 1956, suggesting its enduring appeal across two decades. Whether worn as a delicate whisper of powdery florals or a bold statement of timeless femininity, Violette d'Alger captured the essence of an era enamored with both modern sophistication and the nostalgic charm of classic perfumery.

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