Ambre de Jadis by Ciro c1923

Ambre de Jadis by Ciro was launched in 1923, a time when the perfume industry was embracing both tradition and modernity. The name itself, Ambre de Jadis, is French, with ambre meaning "amber" and jadis translating to "of the past" or "once upon a time." Pronounced ahm-bruh duh zhah-dees, the name evokes a sense of nostalgia, suggesting a fragrance inspired by the rich, opulent scents of bygone eras.

The phrase Ambre de Jadis conjures images of warmth, mystery, and sensuality, characteristic of amber-based perfumes. Amber, in the context of perfumery, is not the fossilized tree resin but rather a blend of ingredients designed to replicate the deep, resinous, and slightly animalic aroma of ambergris. The name suggests a fragrance that is both classic and timeless, evoking the elegance of past generations while offering a refined, modern interpretation. It brings to mind exotic bazaars, richly embroidered textiles, and the golden glow of candlelit salons—a scent steeped in history, yet still relevant to contemporary tastes.

The early 1920s, often referred to as the Jazz Age or the Roaring Twenties, was a period of dramatic social and cultural change. Following World War I, women embraced newfound freedoms, reflected in fashion, beauty, and lifestyle. The restrictive corsets of the previous era were abandoned in favor of looser, more fluid silhouettes championed by designers like Coco Chanel and Paul Poiret. Flappers, with their bobbed hair, beaded dresses, and penchant for dancing late into the night, became the embodiment of modern femininity. The Art Deco movement, characterized by bold geometric patterns, metallic accents, and an embrace of luxury, was at its height.

Within this landscape, Ambre de Jadis would have resonated deeply with women who sought to capture a sense of sensuality and sophistication. Unlike the light floral colognes of the Edwardian period, this fragrance likely embodied the bold, intoxicating allure of amber, an olfactory reflection of the era’s extravagance. Women of the time, particularly those indulging in the glamor of nightlife and haute couture, would have appreciated the fragrance for its rich, enveloping quality—a scent that lingered on silk shawls, fur stoles, and cigarette holders, leaving an unforgettable impression.

As an oriental (amber) fragrance, Ambre de Jadis followed in the footsteps of the longstanding tradition of amber perfumes while introducing a more modernized blend suited to the changing tastes of the 1920s. Amber-based perfumes had been popular throughout the 19th century and well into the 20th, often composed using natural extracts such as ambergris, labdanum, benzoin, and vanilla, combined with floral and animalic notes to create depth and warmth. By the early 20th century, advances in chemistry led to the introduction of synthetic compounds such as reseda-geraniol, benzyl acetate, piperonal, amyl benzoate, vanillin, and coumarin, allowing perfumers greater creative flexibility. Ambre de Jadis likely incorporated both traditional and synthetic elements, resulting in a fragrance that was both familiar and innovative.

Ambergris, one of the most prized ingredients in perfumery, is a rare, waxy substance formed in the digestive system of sperm whales, which is then expelled by the whale. As it floats on the surface of the oceans over time, it ages and develops a unique scent profile, with facets of marine, earthy, sweet, and animalic tones. Its function in perfumery is not only to add depth and warmth but also to act as a fixative, enhancing the longevity and complexity of a fragrance. Natural ambergris was historically used in high-end perfumes, though by the 1920s, synthetic alternatives and accords were becoming more common due to cost and availability.

In essence, Ambre de Jadis by Ciro was both a tribute to the amber-based perfumes of the past and a testament to the evolving artistry of modern perfumery. It encapsulated the essence of an era marked by boldness, luxury, and sensuality, offering a scent that was as timeless as it was contemporary.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Ambre de Jadis by Ciro is classified as an oriental (amber) fragrance for women.

• Top notes: Italian neroli, Tunisian orange blossom, resedageraniol, benzyl acetate, Hungarian clary sage oil
• Middle notes: Bulgarian rose otto, Florentine orris, Grasse jasmine  absolute, piperonal, amyl benzoate 
• Base notes: ambergris, Abyssinian civet, musk ketone, vanillin, coumarin, Siamese benzoin, Sumatran styrax, Indonesian patchouli oil, Indian musk ambrette, Colombian tolu balsam, Ambreine, Maltese labdanum, balsam of Peru, Guatemalan storax, Canadian castoreum, Yugoslavian oakmoss resin, Mexican vanilla, Venezuelan tonka bean, Tibetan musk 
  

Scent Profile:

Ambre de Jadis by Ciro unfolds like an intoxicating journey through the world’s most exquisite raw materials, each ingredient revealing its own story, its own depth, before merging into a seamless, opulent whole. It is a fragrance that feels like stepping into a dimly lit salon adorned with velvet drapes, polished wood, and gilded mirrors, where whispers of bygone eras linger in the air.

The fragrance opens with a radiant burst of Italian neroli, its sunlit citrus brightness both crisp and honeyed, capturing the essence of the Mediterranean coast where orange groves stretch endlessly under golden light. Tunisian orange blossom follows, softer yet heady, weaving a delicate balance between innocence and sensuality. The blossoms from Tunisia are prized for their depth, producing a nectar-like floralcy with hints of green, almost narcotic in its intensity. 

Resedageraniol, a synthetic isolate with a green-rose nuance, sharpens the citrus tones and lends a touch of dew-kissed freshness, while benzyl acetate, found naturally in jasmine, adds a fruity, banana-like undertone that rounds out the opening with a velvety sweetness. Hungarian clary sage oil deepens the first impression with its warm, herbaceous presence, tinged with a whisper of leather and tobacco, hinting at the richness to come.

As the fragrance unfolds, it descends into its floral heart—a lush, intoxicating bouquet where the finest blossoms from around the world converge. Bulgarian rose otto, distilled from the famed roses of the Valley of the Roses, is at the center: rich, honeyed, and velvety, with a spicy warmth that speaks of centuries-old traditions in perfumery. The cool, powdery touch of Florentine orris, aged for years to develop its buttery, violet-like smoothness, caresses the senses, its presence grounding the floral heart with a refined elegance. 

Grasse jasmine absolute, harvested at dawn in the fields of southern France, releases its narcotic, creamy-white petals, mingling with piperonal, whose heliotropic, almond-kissed warmth lingers like sun-drenched skin. Amyl benzoate, with its balsamic, spicy-fruity depth, smooths the edges of the florals, lending a luxurious fluidity to the composition.

The dry down, however, is where Ambre de Jadis reveals its true character—an enveloping embrace of warmth, sensuality, and mystery. The heart of this opulent base is ambergris, a rare and coveted treasure from the sea, whose subtly sweet, marine, and animalic facets give the fragrance an almost ethereal depth. This is no ordinary amber accord—it is infused with the wild, primal richness of Abyssinian civet, whose musky, warm, slightly feral presence intensifies the perfume’s sensuality. 

The powdery elegance of musk ketone softens the composition, while the golden, smoky sweetness of Siamese benzoin and Sumatran styrax bathes the entire fragrance in a resinous glow. These resins, harvested from ancient trees in the forests of Southeast Asia, add layers of warmth, vanilla, and leather, their rich aroma deepened by the earthy, camphoraceous facets of Indonesian patchouli oil.

A touch of spice emerges from Colombian tolu balsam, its dark, syrupy, cinnamon-tinged richness adding further complexity. The animalic hum of Indian musk ambrette, with its warm, slightly fruity muskiness, is complemented by the rugged smokiness of Canadian castoreum, which evokes the scent of well-worn leather and aged woods. Guatemalan storax and balsam of Peru add a deep, enveloping resinous quality, their vanillic, incense-like warmth enhancing the perfume’s glowing, golden nature. Meanwhile, Yugoslavian oakmoss resin lends an earthy, mossy depth that ties the entire structure together, its shadowy green facets hinting at the perfume’s vintage, chypre-like elegance.

Finally, a whisper of indulgent sweetness lingers—Mexican vanilla, lush and creamy, blending seamlessly with the nutty, tobacco-like facets of Venezuelan tonka bean. Tibetan musk, rare and profoundly animalic, adds a final touch of mystery, its warm, powdery muskiness ensuring that Ambre de Jadis leaves behind not just a scent, but an unforgettable presence.

The result is a fragrance that feels timeless, as though it has always existed—an opulent tapestry of exotic treasures, woven into a scent that lingers like a memory of luxury, whispered from another era.

Bottles:

Ambre de Jadis was available in parfum and eau de toilette.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1923, Ambre de Jadis by Ciro emerged during a period of artistic and social transformation, a time when luxury and modernity intertwined seamlessly. The name itself—Ambre de Jadis, translating from French as "Amber of Bygone Days"—evoked a sense of nostalgia, an amber-infused tribute to the past, wrapped in the elegance of contemporary perfumery. Designed for the sophisticated woman of the Jazz Age, this oriental fragrance captured the allure of ambergris, a prized and mysterious ingredient that had been cherished in perfumery for centuries.

Though the exact date of its discontinuation remains unknown, Ambre de Jadis was still available for purchase in 1932, nearly a decade after its debut. This suggests that the fragrance retained a devoted following through the Roaring Twenties and into the early years of the Great Depression, a time when opulence gave way to a more restrained form of luxury. It likely remained in circulation as a symbol of refined indulgence, a fragrance that encapsulated the golden glow of an era marked by flappers, Art Deco, and the intoxicating freedom of the time. Whether worn in the grand ballrooms of the 1920s or in the more somber yet still elegant settings of the early 1930s, Ambre de Jadis stood as a fragrant link between the past and the present, embodying timeless sophistication.